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> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Hidden Valley C…
> Chimney Rock
> Chimney Rock - W Face
West Face Overhang
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 1.8 from 63
votes
Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face
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Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twisted Crystals T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Face Overhang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, 85 ft (26 m) |
| GPS: | 34.01661, -116.16159 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 3,413 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Donno on Oct 31, 2003 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up.
This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof.
There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble down, or scramble up to the top of The Flue, and rap again.
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