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Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face

Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 85 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,944 total, 11/month
Shared By: Donno on Oct 31, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climb is located at the left end of the west face of Chimney Rock. Start just right of a large boulder and head up into a short chimney. Then up and right, up and right and up.

This is a good climb for a new leader to learn about slings, rope drag, and setting a belay. Perhaps break the climb into 2 pitches to avoid serious rope drag, and if doing so belay just before or after the traverse under the roof.

There are bolts on top to rap the backside and into the "chimney". You can scramble down, or scramble up to the top of The Flue, and rap again.

Protection

gear to 3"
We jumped on this route without consulting any guides... so after the roof we set up a second belay station. Tried the direct route, not knowing it was 10b. Took a few falls, then we weren't sure if we should go right or left. We picked the wrong direction, went left around the corner where there is a fun cruiser finger crack with lots of features that I'd rate at 5.6 that takes you up to the top. Jan 16, 2017
Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
I would recommend doing this with plenty of daylight left. Getting off of this rock can be a real pain since there are no rap rings at the top (that we could find). The rope drag near the top in the crack was horrible, especially after the long traverse!

We went straight up the middle section instead of going to the left - a bit spicier than 5.7 for sure.

In retrospect, we should have done this route in two pitches.... Jan 3, 2012
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
 
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
 
Rapping with a 60m+ is definitely the way to go. Just be cognizant of the end of your rope. Apr 18, 2010
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
We rapped off the WEST face with a 60m rope without incident, ending up just thirty feet right of the route's start. This seems much more logical than the other options described. While it may look like you're asking for your rope to get stuck in the upper crack if you rap this way, that crack is wide and probably won't snag your rope. Jan 25, 2010
Matt G  
The dotted line in the picture shows the route I did. Does that help? Dec 22, 2008
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
An interesting climb with a little of everything: crack, slab, chimney, traverse. I can't figure out why the lower section moves left and then back to the right; the multiple crack system straight up between these points is no harder than grade and looks easy to protect. I recommend the 5.10b direct finish when possible. Nov 30, 2007
The dotted line on the picture on this site is not the route I climbed yesterday using the Bartlett guide. I'd like clarification. Feb 16, 2005
C Miller
CA
  5.7
C Miller   CA  
  5.7
This is a decent moderate well worth hopping on if in the vicinity. Easily done in a single pitch with lots of slings, which is perhaps the best way to do this route.

It's hard to believe a climber would have route-finding difficulties on this climb as it's an obvious crack system. Another descent option after rapping from the summit is to circle around towards Pinched Rib and downclimb an easy crack. Feb 26, 2004