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Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face

Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Tom Higgins and others, April 1967
Page Views: 3,021 total, 16/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jul 5, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


88 Opinions

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Description

The obvious wide crack left of Pinched Rib is a good exercise in fist jamming. Despite appearances it's better than it looks and the only thing lacking is length. Descend off to the climber's right, the same descent as for Pinched Rib.

Location

Look for the obvious crack just left of Pinched Rib.

Protection

Pro to 3.5"

AstroDood
his mind
AstroDood   his mind
cam placements not necessary if soloing Jan 13, 2014
Fun climb. Good way to get warm. If you're 5' like my girlfriend, you'll call it OW. Otherwise it is a wide fist crack. I think I used three pieces...... 3.5", 4" and a 5". You could use 3" way back in there, but your second will have to make the stretch to get them. Dec 9, 2013
seemed pretty easy to, on the downclimb, do a little traverse to the tree instead of downclimbing the slab. i'm not sure what's considered the proper down climb but the tree to ramp felt pretty secure Oct 24, 2013
jake marlow
laramie
jake marlow   laramie
super nice fist crack. solid lead. the guidebook only gives it one star but I'm a sucker for a nice crack so I give it 2.5. Jan 13, 2012
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.9
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.9
You can avoid the downclimb by heading over to the bolted rap anchor for The Flue. Nov 14, 2011
The first guide (Wolfe's) described Damper as F5 (5.4) " A jamcrack in a large dihedral near the south end of the west face provides a short beginner's route. First ascent: unknown."


It was one of my first leads at the Monument and proved to be quite exciting. One each 4", 3" and 2" bongs. Stiff old school boots do fit better than modern shoes though. Apr 18, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Fun climb to do at the end of the day - felt pretty cruiser for 5.9 since I have big hands. bring a couple nuts to back up a comfy belay seat at the top, or a couple 2-3" pieces to use the crack at the top of Pinched Rib. Tricky walk-off Mar 17, 2010
JoshuaTreeRunner David
Los Angeles
  5.9+
JoshuaTreeRunner David   Los Angeles
  5.9+
This is one my favorite climbs at hidden valley campground. i like wide cracks. it was cupped hands for me and used a fist a few times. others have said they used fists for most of it. feet are tough as you enter the crack then it eases off. very enjoyable.

excellent overall! just wish it were longer. Jan 27, 2008
Adam Kimmerly
  5.9
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.9
Definitely a fist crack, even for my slightly smaller than average hands. Yes, there are wider sections where I placed pro (as to not block the better jams) but I don't remember a point on the route where I didn't have fist jams I could hang singly off of. 5.9 seems fair, as does 2 stars out of 5. Good, but too short to earn any more. Apr 30, 2007
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.9
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.9
Good burly fun! Nothing larger than a #4 needed, but #3.5 Camalots would fit best.

We had 50+ mph winds on the day we did it, and didn't feel like the sketchy downclimb in the breeze. Instead, we climbed up and over and dropped in to the top of the Flue - where there are rap anchors. 4th class the entire way. We had to navigate around some boulders, and through a squeeze gap, but it was fine. Apr 11, 2007
Josh Beck
  5.9
Josh Beck  
  5.9
In my opinion this is probably the best route on Chimney Rock and a mandatory lead for those working their way up the grades on cracks. I agree with Tony that (at least for Men w/ average sized hands) this is a fist crack in a flare more than an OW. Also agree that the downclimb is probably not best for people on their first weekend of climbing, though by the same token this is not a good climb necessarily for a first time climber :) Mar 26, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.9
I would not have called this an Offwidth. I would have called it a fist crack. Rack up to a #4 camalot, but until the top (belay anchor) the biggest thing I used was 3.5". The belay anchor can be set with a small tricam (red, I think it was) + a #7 rock and a #4 camalot. The downclimb is a little scarey for some, so if you are with less advanced climbers, please consider letting your partners rap off of the anchor and then down-climb alone.

two stars. if you don't like sustained jamming, less, but if you do, it's quite fun.

Middle of the road 5.9, unless you have very small hands. Small female climbers who may have to stack hands or arm-bar. Jan 6, 2003