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Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face

Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 756 total, 5/month
Shared By: Roger Linfield on Jul 8, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

A fun thin crack/mantle problem. The original 5.7 line started well to the left, and then traversed right to the upper part of the route. The direct start is a better way to do the climb - the protection is very good for the hard moves.

Location

middle of the southwest face of Chimney Rock, to the left of Damper

Protection

mainly small gear

Photos

Johnny Ice
Tucson, AZ
Johnny Ice   Tucson, AZ
Not worth doing. Howard's horror became my own as I realized how much time I wasted on it. But that's just me. In all honesty, I might feel different if I would've lead it because my partner took way way way too long finding the route. And the decent through the chimney was ridiculous. I used my cordelette looped around a rock to prevent me from killing myself. It is safe enough but its my first experience with that kind of decent. I'd rather rap off the east face anchors at the top of the chimney. It would save time. Mar 30, 2011
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
Above the crux, Howard's Horror follows the crack that separates the taller face on the left from the lower section on the right. Follow through several short offwidths and rounded ledges. For descent, we chose to 4th class to the top of the northwest gully and rappel from the chains atop the east face. Nov 30, 2007