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Routes in Moosedog Tower

Bitch in Heat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chossy Choad T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dogmoose Tower T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Forty-Nine Rainbows S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Half Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lucky Dawg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Moosecat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Quien Sabe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Racing The Sun (aka Lucky Charms) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Swink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Third Time's a Charm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tranquility T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unknown Choss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Wanderin' into Lichtenstein T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wandering Winnebago T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 6,548 total · 32/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Mar 1, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Tranquility goes up the toe of the south buttess of Moosedog Tower and. At the alcove about 50 feet up, curve right around the overhang to the 1st "summit." Continue up slabby face climbing to the top of the formation.

This climb gets one star only if you can't lead 5.8. Otherwise, skip this one and climb Direct South Face. Moosedog has a nice summit and a fun, free-hanging rappel descent, but this route is a fairly unpleasant way to get there. There are some nice moves off the ground, and the second pitch is fun, but the moves to get around the overhang on the first pitch, while not particularly difficult, pretty much suck.

Although a 60m rope will reach to the top, most climbers divide this into two pitches to alleviate rope drag. If you're comfortable on run out 5.6 slab, there's no need to build the intermediate belay -- just don't place any pieces on the second pitch.

Protection

Standard rack. Camalots to #3. Some smaller nuts may be useful on the second pitch.
Above the alcove, the crack to the right ,on Tranquility, is well beyond 5.6. Jan 10, 2005
Karen Bohl
Prescott
5.6
Karen Bohl   Prescott
5.6
I agree with Woody. No way is this section a 5.6. Jan 13, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
I have led this thing a couple times now and think you Woody and you Karen are nuts! 5.6.............ha! Jan 14, 2005
Okay Locker. Coming soon to an experience near you will be an opportunity to prove to me that the right-hand crack is only 5.6. Being so easy, you won't need any pro at all. I'll even take pictures. Hell, you won't even need a belay. Jan 15, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
OK Woody, I will upgrade it for your sake..........I think it goes at around 5.6c/d.................. Jan 16, 2005
Karen Bohl
Prescott
5.6
Karen Bohl   Prescott
5.6
locker, when you solo this 5.6 crack just make sure you have "proof"....photo, eh???? Oh, and make sure your hair is just right for this photo shot. Jan 18, 2005
Yeah Locker. And be sure to let me know so I can be there to get a series of pictures of the medics, ambulance etc. Jan 19, 2005
Locker
Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
Locker   Yucca Valley, CA
  5.6
we're talking about a pretty easy route here Karen and Woody..........it is not hard at all! If I were to need "PROOF" of leading this one this late in the game...........I might as well place myself in an "Old folks home".............Sorry you two had problems with it. But that in itself does not up the rating....The rating is relative...maybe you lead on "Off" days? Maybe I lead more than once the route on "on days"? Whatever the situation, I stick with 5.6 (Maybe Hard 5.6 if there is such a thing) Jan 19, 2005
Dave Cox  
 
If you want the 5.6 take the exposed arete to the left of these cracks(tie off flakes)The two cracks above are 5.8 according to Al's book. I have done the left one it felt 5.8. The right I have no clue.Fun route either way. Jan 20, 2005
Thank God (forgive me aclu ), now a little support. Locker, I'm always right. The crack to the right is rated 5.8; however, I found it a bit more demanding than that. It's a good deal more difficult than the left crack. The line shown on the picture on this site shows "Tranquility" going up the right crack. That is an error. Jan 21, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.6
Well, I on-sight free soloed it without having read this controversy and I don't recall any cognative dissodence regarding the grade or my location on this route. I thought 5.6 was fine for a grade on it.As well, I thought it was a really nice route and deserved more than 1 star. I'd recommend the route, which is the definintion of a 2-star route on this site. Maybe it's a 2-star solo but only a 1-star lead-climb due to the circuitous nature of it- no problem on solo, but not so nice with rope drag? Jan 16, 2006
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
At the alcove, before moving into the right trending crack to get around the overhang, it didn't seem like a "sucky" move to me. Technical - yes - but not "sucky" as a couple of quite solid jams got me over to and established on the crack.

I'd do Tranquility again! Apr 16, 2006
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
5.6+. Sep 22, 2006
Tyler Logan
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Tyler Logan   Mammoth Lakes, CA
The right crack is not a 5.6. It's at least as hard as We Dive at Dawn, which I climbed for the first time the same day. Dec 25, 2007
JayCap  
The route description is okay, but the comments are misleading. If you are going to do the 5.6, stay out of the cracks! The left leaning crack is easier to get into than the awkward move to get into the right leaning crack, but they're both off-route. To stay 5.6, traverse right out of the alcove and head around the corner, using friction for the feet and some underclings for hands. Once you turn the corner you head up a short friction ramp to the saddle between the first and second summit. Rope drag is an issue around the corner, but this keeps the climbing 5.6. Jan 7, 2009
72HW Holly
  5.6
72HW Holly  
  5.6
The obvious wide crack that trends Left out of the alcove (topmost one of two) protects easily with a hand sized cam - this is the only pro needed for the section.

Easier than the hand traverse on Overhang Bypass, so this gets 5.6 from me. Apr 13, 2009
Brian Hench
Costa Mesa, CA
5.7
Brian Hench   Costa Mesa, CA
5.7
This route is not 5.6. Nov 24, 2009
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
Neither crack is part of this route.

It's a fun route, but it's misrepresented in the main beta photo here on mountain project. See the photos I added for the correct route. If you read the historical route info, you'll find that it's clear that this route goes up the exposed arete above and to the right of the roof.

If you follow this route, the climbing remains easy and is quite exposed, really adding to the mini-adventure of it. Lots of opps for pro, including slinging a nice plate before the hardest move before the lower summit.
Jan 18, 2010
attila  
Did the apparently 5.8 variation by taking the right leaning crack out of the alcove. We knew rope drag may be an issue, and went to the trouble of dividing this up into 3 pitches. The rope drag was bad anyway. Not great places for setting up the anchors either. Not worth the trouble. Jan 28, 2010
Javier L
Asheville, NC
  5.8+
Javier L   Asheville, NC
  5.8+
I'd give that crack portion a 5.8+. Those are definitely not pleasant moves but I enjoyed the challenging surprise. Next time, I'll definitely do the correct route. Thanks for the right photo, Chris. Jan 9, 2011
Alex Davis
Los Angeles, CA
  5.6
Alex Davis   Los Angeles, CA
  5.6
Fun route.

I'm not sure why people are calling the right-trending crack sandbagged, because it seems a 5.6 seems fitting for Joshua Tree. Maybe a bit heady due to the exposure, but relatively easy moves.

Pretty bad rope drag. Make sure you sling liberally if you take the right-trending crack.

Also, the first 60 feet or so (until you get to the bolt), while easy climbing, has minimal placement opportunities. Might freak out a new leader who isn't used to climbing above their gear. Jan 19, 2012
The right trending crack above the bolt is significantly more difficult than Chasing the Sun (5.7). Jan 24, 2012
We opted for the left crack above the alcove when the face toward the arete looked a bit crumbly. The left crack that is listed in several of the guides as the route for Direct South Face felt accurate at around 5.7. Really just a couple of moves followed by some easy climbing. Maybe a good option. Jan 30, 2012
Alex Peterson
Kamas, Utah
  5.6 PG13
Alex Peterson   Kamas, Utah
  5.6 PG13
Recommend you do the route the way it is depicted in the "Old-Fashion" picture. That is go hard left at the alcove out to the airy corner. Set some pro then head straight up the arete to the false submit. Having done the described route adn the "old-Fashion" picture route, I give the old fashion 3 stars. Plenty of pro opportunities and holds, but you are dancing on a very exposed arete. It's a hoot!! Jun 8, 2013
RJNakata
SoCal
  5.6
RJNakata   SoCal
  5.6
This is a nice "mini adventure." Thanks to Chris D for posting the beta photo.
Moving left to the exposed arête is definitely the highlight of the route.
Bob Gaines also shows the route on the left-side arête.
I'll do this one again for sure. Nov 14, 2013
David Cisneros
oceanside ca
  5.6
David Cisneros   oceanside ca
  5.6
I led this on 1/12/14 and followed the route from the alcove hard left to the arête and up. Great exposure stepping up onto the arête and a few good flakes to tie off, and a good cam placement around the corner of the arête to protect the step up to reach the first of two flakes. The rock along the arête approaching the false summit had a crumbly nature and I avoided placing any nuts in bad rock, I instead ran out the last bit placed one piece then dropped into the notch to end the pitch and belay. A bit of rope drag on this second pitch but not too bad. Overall a good route very fun good exposure good belay stances, and great rappell to finish. I'd like to do it again, maybe try the direct south face start. Jan 13, 2014
Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
so yeah, above the alcove, the crack to the right, on Tranquility as mis-drawn in some books, is well beyond 5.6 Feb 5, 2016
joed  
it seems that the confusion here is that the R crack out of the alcove is not the route Tranquility. I also did this route this past weekend and thought "5.6, my ass"....but I guess if you skip the overhanging crack it is 5.6.....the drawing in the book seemed to suggest taking the R crack....I would agree w the above suggestion that the R crack is probably 'old school, j tree 5.8'.... Nov 28, 2016
The move out of the belay station up the right diagonal crack is more intimidating than hard. It might be harder than 5.6, but fortunately it is easy to protect. Reach up and place a 0.4 cam in the crack before you make the move, and then a 0.75 or 0.5 a few feet further up the crack as soon as you are up and you should be fine.

At the end of the crack there is a scramble that leaves you with a choice to go left or right around a boulder. I went left and regretted it due to huge rope drag through the crack. Jan 4, 2017
Floyd Hayes
  5.6
Floyd Hayes  
  5.6
The route is much longer than 120' as described above, I'm pretty sure it's well over 200' to the rappel anchor. Climbing up the exposed arete of the original route was fun and easy, it felt like 5.5. I thought the crux move (5.6) of the climb was the first slab move to the final wide crack just below the summit. Apr 3, 2017

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