Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 8,196 total · 39/month
Shared By: Brian Reynolds on Mar 1, 2002 with improvements by Sean
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Tranquility goes up the toe of the south buttress of Moosedog Tower. Start below and slightly to the right of Direct South Face, on the left edge of the narrow southeast face (starting up the right side of that face as misdrawn in some guidebooks is harder and more runout).  After about 20 ft, follow obvious juggy easy terrain to diagonal up and left to a big ledge just below an intimidating-looking steep arete on the left (directly above the left side of the big roof on Direct South Face).  DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP MIDDLE OF FACE TO THE ALCOVE WITH THE BOLTS ABOUT 50 FT UP, which is usu done as part of Direct South Face, at about 5.8 to pull the roof above those bolts to slant up and left, and much harder to curve right and wrap around that right side to go up to the 1st "summit."  Stay on-route by climbing the exposed left arete, which goes much easier than it looks, at actually 5.5, and is protectable, albeit via pumpy placement stances due to the steepness.  Veer up and rightward above that to the 1st "summit."  Behind and above the sub-summit notch, make a few heady moves up a slabby face to gain a wide but juggy left-slanting crack to reach the true summit.Moosedog has a nice summit and a fun, free-hanging rappel descent at its far backside.Tranquility is easy and fun if able to stay on-route.  Beware that some guidebooks had this route misdrawn over the years.Although a 60m rope will reach to the top, most climbers divide this into two pitches to alleviate rope drag. If you're comfortable on runout 5.6 slab, there's no need to build the intermediate belay -- just don't place any pieces on the second pitch, or place and sling them VERY long.

Protection

Standard rack. Camalots to #3. Some smaller nuts may be useful on the second pitch.

Photos