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Tranquility
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 2.4 from 156
votes
Routes in Moosedog Tower
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Bitch in Heat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Chossy Choad T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Direct South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dogmoose Tower T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Forty-Nine Rainbows S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Half Time T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lucky Dawg T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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Moosecat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Quien Sabe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Racing The Sun (aka Lucky Charms) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Swink T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Third Time's a Charm T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Tranquility T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Unknown Choss T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Wanderin' into Lichtenstein T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wandering Winnebago T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Type: | Trad, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 34.0949, -116.1649 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 13,591 total · 46/month |
| Shared By: | Brian Reynolds on Mar 1, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
Tranquility goes up the toe of the south buttress of Moosedog Tower. Start below and slightly to the right of Direct South Face, on the left edge of the narrow southeast face (starting up the right side of that face as misdrawn in some guidebooks is harder and more runout). After about 20 ft, follow obvious juggy easy terrain to diagonal up and left to a big ledge just below an intimidating-looking steep arete on the left (directly above the left side of the big roof on Direct South Face). DO NOT GO STRAIGHT UP MIDDLE OF FACE TO THE ALCOVE WITH THE BOLTS ABOUT 50 FT UP (usually done as part of Direct South Face, at about 5.8 to pull the roof above those bolts to slant up and left, and much harder to curve right and wrap around that right side to go up to the 1st "summit.") Instead, stay on-route by climbing the exposed left arete, which goes much easier than it looks, at actually 5.5, and is protectable, albeit via pumpy placement stances due to the steepness. Veer up and rightward above that to the 1st "summit." Behind and above the sub-summit notch, make a few heady moves up a slabby face to gain a wide but juggy left-slanting crack to reach the true summit. Moosedog has a nice summit and a fun, free-hanging rappel from three substantial bolts with rap rings at its far backside. Tranquility is easy and fun if able to stay on-route. Beware that some guidebooks had this route misdrawn over the years. Although a 60m rope will reach to the top, most climbers divide this into two pitches to alleviate rope drag. If you're comfortable on runout 5.6 slab, there's no need to build the intermediate belay -- just don't place any pieces on the second pitch, or place and sling them VERY long.
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