Unknown Choss
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British R
| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| GPS: | 34.0949, -116.1649 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 855 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Matt Hagny on Nov 30, 2017 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
I include this route only because it looks enticing, but is complete junk. Chalk is conspicuous on the large blocky flake between the roof of Wandering Winnebago and the line Third Time's a Charm. It looks fun. Unfortunately, that blocky flake is about ready to fall down -- you'd be crazy to put a cam behind it, and even standing or pulling on it is probably unwise. Choss below. No good gear on the bottom half, so you're free soloing on highly suspect rock. What looks to be an interesting crack diagonal and then vertical is really quite easy and not interesting. Maybe one or two fun moves on the entire route. Stay off -- there are much better and much safer routes nearby.



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