Direct South Face
Avg: 2.7 from 106 votes
|Type:||Trad, 200 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Jim Barker, John Mokri, Bob Dominick & Norm Saude, January 1969, FFA: Chris Gonzalez, May 1975|
|Page Views:||7,688 total · 40/month|
|Shared By:||Adam Stackhouse on Jun 28, 2002|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis route starts out of the boulders at the base of the south face, in a prominent left-facing dihedral with an obvious roof capping it. Can't miss it.
Pitch 1: Climb the dihedral to the roof crack, set some gear and pull the crux move (burly 5.9) up and over the right corner of the roof. Easy climbing up the seriously featured face above to a bolt. Belay.
Pitch 2: Climb out of the alcove above the belay, taking the very obvious left-leaning crack (5.7). After angling up and left, the crack goes vertical. Continue up and over into a notch below the upper part of the tower. Belay (#2, #3 Camalots good here).
Pitch 3: A short face section (5.6) leads up and left to gain the bottom of an easy crack leading to the summit ridge. Once on the ridge, run the rope via the easiest route across to the anchor bolts at the back of Moosedog.
Single line rap off the back of the tower from bolts.