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Routes in Dire Spire

Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Engagement, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Impeachable Offense T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punching In A Dream S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Questionable Ink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snakebite Evangelist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Mike Engle '87
Page Views: 175 total · 1/month
Shared By: Will Buckman on Dec 10, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Found 25 feet left of The Engagement (bolted line on eastern side), Impeachable Offense starts with an overhanging dihedral for the first 20 feet. Feet are solid and there are many good fingerlocks with a right hand flake for the hands. After fighting through the overhang, step right ten feet and follow a perfect hand crack which leads to a overhanging roof. One might choose to set up an intermediate belay (3.5 camalot would be helpful)before the hand crack to avoid rope drag but is not necessary. The roof after the handcrack is not to strenuous, stepping left when possible keeps the route from becoming overwhelming. Build an anchor on a good ledge with chockstones or creative gear placements. Beware of slinging the massive detached rock found at the end of the pitch! For the second pitch, there is one bolt that protects the north-eastern arete. It is found 15 feet above the belay ledge and does not inspire confidence (SMC button-head that spins). Needles style crystals offer good holds to fixed anchors at the top, just keep a steady head and have fun. A two rope rappel necessary to reach the ground, throwing the ropes to the north-west will bring one down to a nice clearing. This is a spectacular climb worthy of repeating.

Protection

Protection is consitently available. Pitch one takes small cams (.3-.5 camalots) and nuts for the overhanging dihedral at the beginning. A short, but beautiful, handcrack takes as many #2 camalots as desired (no more than two or three), and the final overhanging roof has solid gear in the sm/med cam size.

Photos

John Klooster
Arvada, CO
  5.10a
John Klooster   Arvada, CO
  5.10a
I followed this route behind BJ and it was awesome. Impeachable Offense is not often done, the hand crack was beautiful and the summit was very unlike any other summit I have been on at Rushmore. Dec 12, 2004
mike gibson
Rapid City, SD
  5.9
mike gibson   Rapid City, SD
  5.9
rotten crappy rock at bottom. Apr 21, 2014

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