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Routes in Dire Spire

Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Engagement, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Impeachable Offense T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punching In A Dream S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Questionable Ink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snakebite Evangelist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Hirsch, June 2017
Page Views: 76 total, 14/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jul 10, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This side of the Dire Spire wall took a couple of inspections over several years before I realized there was an all gear line to be had, and on good rock!

Route starts on the far right side of the overhanging, orange wall next to a single bolt for the belay. Power through a desperate flare on small gear (all pieces were bounce tested and held) to gain horizontal and a good rest. Fire up middle crux to another rest below roof. Follow crack as it wraps around the corner to the right. Place any gear available and enter the final, balancy crux right below the anchors.

Protection

Single rack; .1/.2 offset - #4 camalot & nuts
Chain anchors
60m rope friendly

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