Avg: 2.8 from 30 votes
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft (55 m), 2 pitches|
|FA:||Herb and Jann Conn|
|Page Views:||2,223 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Gram on Jul 3, 2002|
|Admins:||Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
From the back of the spire(facing away from the road), climb a large chimney system until it blanks out against the upper part of the spire. Turn right, tunnel in, and then turn left into another chimney which takes you to a fantastic belay ledge at the base of the upper spire. This pitch protects well, but use very long runners as it is in the pitch travels in the shape of a big Z.
For pitch 2, take a deep breath and launch up the friction and crystal face. I only remember one bolt on this pitch, but there may be two. Regardless, it is very runout and frightening - falling before clipping the first bolt or just before reaching the summit will put you in the hurt locker for a long time.
This is the best summit at Rushmore, and one of the best perches in the Needles. A double rope rap leads to the start of the route.