Avg: 2.7 from 26 votes
Routes in Dire Spire
|Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R|
|Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c|
|Engagement, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Impeachable Offense T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Punching In A Dream S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c|
|Questionable Ink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13|
|Snakebite Evangelist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c|
|Type:||Trad, 180 ft, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Herb and Jann Conn|
|Page Views:||1,609 total, 9/month|
|Shared By:||Andrew Gram on Jul 3, 2002|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty|
Check NPS for Closures Details
DescriptionA Needles style route right in the heart of Rushmore.
From the back of the spire(facing away from the road), climb a large chimney system until it blanks out against the upper part of the spire. Turn right, tunnel in, and then turn left into another chimney which takes you to a fantastic belay ledge at the base of the upper spire. This pitch protects well, but use very long runners as it is in the pitch travels in the shape of a big Z.
For pitch 2, take a deep breath and launch up the friction and crystal face. I only remember one bolt on this pitch, but there may be two. Regardless, it is very runout and frightening - falling before clipping the first bolt or just before reaching the summit will put you in the hurt locker for a long time.
This is the best summit at Rushmore, and one of the best perches in the Needles. A double rope rap leads to the start of the route.