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Routes in Dire Spire

Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Engagement, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Impeachable Offense T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punching In A Dream S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Questionable Ink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snakebite Evangelist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Mike Lilygren 1993
Page Views: 922 total, 16/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Apr 10, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Super classic Rushmore 5.10 that may rival 'Deja Vu Prophecy'. Great exposure way above the highway on a steepening slab. Start in a short dihedral on a big ledge just left of a large block that sits at the bottom left corner of the overhanging orange face. Be careful of loose blocks! Finger to hand size gear is nice to have for reaching the first bolt. Link the bolts straight up, right of crescent arete, to a small point. From here you could finish out the Conn route to the top or rap into 'Snakebite Evangelist' for a sweet top-rope.

Location

NW corner. Bolted black face left of large streaked wall that faces the road. One 60m rope rap.

Protection

11 bolts
.5-#1 BD (optional)
Chain anchors

Photos

Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.10
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.10
I suppose this goes without saying, but since this is listed as a sport route and you don't really need gear for the climbing, one may wish to bring a small rack to anchor the belayer...

One comment about a single 60M rope and this route: As I was top belaying my follower up, the middle mark on my rope went through my belay device when my climber had climbed about 10-15 feet up from the ledge. As not all 60M ropes are created equal, I probably would err on the side of trailing an additional rope up for a double rope rap to be absolutely sure you will make it back down. YMMV.

Excellent route. Jun 13, 2016
ShanJ2me
Rapid City, SD
 
ShanJ2me   Rapid City, SD
 
A super fun route!, Go right after 1st bolt (placing a finger size piece in the layback crack will give you piece of mind getting to second bolt). Not your typical crystal pinching route- holds are very interesting-- I really enjoy this route!! a 70 meter rope was NICE to have!! Oct 18, 2015
Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.10a
Jimmy D   Rapid City
  5.10a
A 60m just BARELY makes it down. Aug 7, 2015
Spectacular route. Thought I'd mention that a BD .5 with a long sling comes in handy to minimize the distance (20 ft) between the first two bolts. Aug 22, 2014