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Routes in Dire Spire

Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Engagement, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Impeachable Offense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punching In A Dream S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Questionable Ink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snakebite Evangelist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Dire Spire is the impressive spire that looks like an evil pitchfork just past Mt Rushmore. There are a few sport routes on it, but the only way to tag the summit is an old-fashioned Needles runout pitch. This is my favorite summit at Rushmore.

Getting There

Park in a pullout below the spire, and bushwhack up to the base. This is one of the worst approaches at Rushmore, though it still doesn't take more than 20 minutes or so. Be careful not to stray into the signed off limits area - doing so will get you a huge fine and will probably get the area closed.

7 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Dire Spire

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 26
Conn Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
The Engagement
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Conn Route
 26
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
The Engagement
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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Photos

Is 'Snakebite Evangelist' open? With the closings and everything around the monument? What kind of gear does it take? How many bolts? Isn't there a funky anchor to belay off of? Anyone?

May 8, 2003

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