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Routes in Dire Spire

Conn Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Dead Men Don't Wear Plaid T 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Engagement, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Impeachable Offense T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Punching In A Dream S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Questionable Ink T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Snakebite Evangelist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Paul Piana & Heidi Badaracco 11-16-90
Page Views: 644 total, 8/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Sep 18, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Beautiful line on the steep, vibrant side of Dire Spire. Lots of liebacking up the left facing, left leaning "crack". Crux is in the first quarter followed by a decent rest at halfway. Then pumpy 5.11 liebacking to an exciting redpoint crux right before the anchors. This is a stout 13a, in my opinion, and one of the best with awesome exposure. And the large belay ledge makes for a great hang.

Location

This is the leftmost crack on the steep yellow wall of Dire Spire. The quickest and easiest way to the belay ledge is from the start of 'The Engagement'. Head to the right to a large detached block with a bolt just above it. Use this bolt to lower down to the ledge, where there is a anchor setup. Otherwise you could climb a bushy pitch from down below the ledge, which you may want gear for.

Protection

Bolts. Chain anchors.

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