Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles

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All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Chief > Grand Wall Area > Grand Wall (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0)

Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles

ID 106547059 ·

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Your pro is below your feet as you pull the crux of the Sword pitch. I like to place a nut and a cam before launching into it. Photo of Kelly Franz by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Right in the middle of the crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

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Carl Pelletier

Sep 16, 2009

“Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles”

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Nearby Photos

As the Split Pillar goes from hands to fists... Photo of Alisdair Buchanan by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

The second crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

I belly-flopped onto Sail flake! Couldn't mantle, or pull up on anything else ... and had to rest before the next moves.

split pillar

Adam on the vescalator (velcro escalator).

Bracksieck leads the first 5.10 pitch.

Your pro is below your feet as you pull the crux of the Sword pitch. I like to place a nut and a cam before launching into it. Photo of Kelly Franz by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles

Right in the middle of the crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

The Grand Wall. The first pitch shown is the Split Pillar, and the last belay station is on the Bellygood Ledge.<br>
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Bolts on the individual pitches are not shown. All belay stations are 2 bolts + chains and a big fat steel rap ring.

The Sail Flake, the final pitch of the Grand Wall (unless you're continuing up The Roman Chimneys). Photo of Alisdair Buchanan by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Climber leading the Sword pitch. He's looking pretty comfortable for this being a crux section!

Ty Johnson on the Split Pillar

Starting up the Sword pitch from the fantastic belay at the top of the Split Pillar. Photo of Kelly Franz by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Tony leading Perry's Layback. Skipping every other bolt saves a lot of effort.

The Sword pitch.

the exposure of the Grand Wall

Top of Perry's layback - glad it hasn't rained yet, but still cold!

Grand Wall December 1972

View of Howe sound from top of Perry's layback - on a chilly day, with rain threatening. I was climbing with a Canadian, who's better adapted to cold!<br>

Split Pillar, Sword, and Perry's Layback as seen from the base of The Grand Wall.

Contemplating the "Flats"

JD and Téa following on the Split Pillar.

Tough girl style on the Split Pillar (liebacking w/ a pack)

Enjoying the split pillar tooo much?

Where are we, Indian Creek?

The Sword

John climbing the tree at the beginning of the final pitch (the Seal Flake pitch).

Bellygood Ledge, which traverses from the top of the Grand Wall route to the trees on the right (climbers') side of the wall. This ledge traverse is exposed enough that I wouldn't want to do this without a rope.

Once the sustained part of the Split Pillar is done, you still have some climbing to do. Saving a #1 Camalot for this section is nice.

Andy Ross on Bellygood ledge 1999

Reachy bolt ladder leading to the bottom of the Split Pillar

The aid pitch above the Sword, on a very cold day.

Looking for the dry foothold to finish P2.

From the base of the Sword, looking down on Mercy Me (tiny red dots).

George Bracksieck leads pitch one of the wonderful Mercy Me dike.

Aid pitch, standing on the dental-floss slings hurts the feet!

Tristan and Gerhard on the Split Pillar, Grand Wall

Keith leading up the Sword of Damacles

Bellygood ledge

Nice exposure on The Flats pitch.

A picture from a traverse on the Grand Wall Lite

Groups on the Split Pillar and the Sword. Taken from Cruel Shoes (5.10d). The wall is vertical, so the photo is not an accurate representation.

Tony almost done on The Flats pitch above Perry's Layback.

Merriam checking out the reachy crux on the Flats pitch of the grand wall.

Not a great shot, but you can see what the traverse is like in this shot, taken at perhaps 11am, befor the sun hit. Peter Spindloe is at the end of this traverse. Photo by Tony Bubb 7/08.

The final bit of climbing across the top of the Seal Flake. After this, a few feet to Bellygood Ledge!

Corroded anchor at second belay of Mercy Me, June 5, 2005. All the anchors have this little problem to some degree. Easy to replace, if you know ahead of time. Bring some quick links and a wrench, if your interested.

Perry's layback

Looking back across Bellygood

I hauled the pack at the Sword anchor and then aided the bolt ladder before bringing up the second. This worked pretty well.

Super-cool tree belay at the base of the Split Pillar

Approaching the Split Pillar (fun with angles)

Perfect hands in the Split Pillar

Fingers, hands, fists! The turducken of jamming pitches.

Looking down from the anchors at the top of the beautiful Split Pillar pitch.

Pitch 1 of Merci Me.

Pitch 2 of Merci Me.

The Flats.

John starting up the Split Pillar. Amazing pitch!

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