Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles

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Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles

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The Grand Wall. The first pitch shown is the Split Pillar, and the last belay station is on the Bellygood Ledge.<br>
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Bolts on the individual pitches are not shown. All belay stations are 2 bolts + chains and a big fat steel rap ring.

Right in the middle of the crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

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Carl Pelletier

Sep 16, 2009

“Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles”

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Nearby Photos

As the Split Pillar goes from hands to fists... Photo of Alisdair Buchanan by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

The second crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

I belly-flopped onto Sail flake! Couldn't mantle, or pull up on anything else ... and had to rest before the next moves.

split pillar

Adam on the vescalator (velcro escalator).

Bracksieck leads the first 5.10 pitch.

Your pro is below your feet as you pull the crux of the Sword pitch. I like to place a nut and a cam before launching into it. Photo of Kelly Franz by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

The Grand Wall. The first pitch shown is the Split Pillar, and the last belay station is on the Bellygood Ledge.<br>
<br>
Bolts on the individual pitches are not shown. All belay stations are 2 bolts + chains and a big fat steel rap ring.

Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles

Right in the middle of the crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Climber leading the Sword pitch. He's looking pretty comfortable for this being a crux section!

The Sail Flake, the final pitch of the Grand Wall (unless you're continuing up The Roman Chimneys). Photo of Alisdair Buchanan by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Starting up the Sword pitch from the fantastic belay at the top of the Split Pillar. Photo of Kelly Franz by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Tony leading Perry's Layback. Skipping every other bolt saves a lot of effort.

the exposure of the Grand Wall

Ty Johnson on the Split Pillar

Top of Perry's layback - glad it hasn't rained yet, but still cold!

The Sword pitch.

Grand Wall December 1972

View of Howe sound from top of Perry's layback - on a chilly day, with rain threatening. I was climbing with a Canadian, who's better adapted to cold!<br>

Split Pillar, Sword, and Perry's Layback as seen from the base of The Grand Wall.

Where are we, Indian Creek?

JD and Téa following on the Split Pillar.

Enjoying the split pillar tooo much?

Tough girl style on the Split Pillar (liebacking w/ a pack)

The Sword

John climbing the tree at the beginning of the final pitch (the Seal Flake pitch).

Contemplating the "Flats"

Once the sustained part of the Split Pillar is done, you still have some climbing to do. Saving a #1 Camalot for this section is nice.

Bellygood Ledge, which traverses from the top of the Grand Wall route to the trees on the right (climbers') side of the wall. This ledge traverse is exposed enough that I wouldn't want to do this without a rope.

Bellygood ledge

George Bracksieck leads pitch one of the wonderful Mercy Me dike.

Andy Ross on Bellygood ledge 1999

From the base of the Sword, looking down on Mercy Me (tiny red dots).

Reachy bolt ladder leading to the bottom of the Split Pillar

Looking for the dry foothold to finish P2.

Tristan and Gerhard on the Split Pillar, Grand Wall

Aid pitch, standing on the dental-floss slings hurts the feet!

The aid pitch above the Sword, on a very cold day.

Keith leading up the Sword of Damacles

Nice exposure on The Flats pitch.

A picture from a traverse on the Grand Wall Lite

Looking down from the anchors at the top of the beautiful Split Pillar pitch.

Groups on the Split Pillar and the Sword. Taken from Cruel Shoes (5.10d). The wall is vertical, so the photo is not an accurate representation.

Perry's layback

Comfy belay before the A0 bolt ladder

Merriam checking out the reachy crux on the Flats pitch of the grand wall.

Looking up Perry's Layback.

Not a great shot, but you can see what the traverse is like in this shot, taken at perhaps 11am, befor the sun hit. Peter Spindloe is at the end of this traverse. Photo by Tony Bubb 7/08.

Super-cool tree belay at the base of the Split Pillar

Crippling toe pain usually ends the fun for me on long routes. My new super-sized Acopa JB's fixed that, making the cracks, faces, and trees fun.

Arm bars provide a much-needed rest!

Approaching the Split Pillar (fun with angles)

Corroded anchor at second belay of Mercy Me, June 5, 2005. All the anchors have this little problem to some degree. Easy to replace, if you know ahead of time. Bring some quick links and a wrench, if your interested.

The bolt ladder after The Sword.

I hauled the pack at the Sword anchor and then aided the bolt ladder before bringing up the second. This worked pretty well.

Midway up Perry's Layback.

The final bit of climbing across the top of the Seal Flake. After this, a few feet to Bellygood Ledge!

The Flats.

Tony almost done on The Flats pitch above Perry's Layback.