Right in the middle of the crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

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All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Grand Wall Area > Grand Wall (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c A0)

Right in the middle of the crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

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Carl belaying Keith on the Sword of Damacles

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4.9 from 8 votes

Peter Spindloe

Nov 25, 2007

“Right in the middle of the crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.”

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Nearby Photos

As the Split Pillar goes from hands to fists... Photo of Alisdair Buchanan by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

The second crux of the Sword pitch. Photo of Mike Hengeveld by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

I belly-flopped onto Sail flake! Couldn't mantle, or pull up on anything else ... and had to rest before the next moves.

The Grand Wall. The first pitch shown is the Split Pillar, and the last belay station is on the Bellygood Ledge.<br>
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Bolts on the individual pitches are not shown. All belay stations are 2 bolts + chains and a big fat steel rap ring.

Adam on the vescalator (velcro escalator).

Your pro is below your feet as you pull the crux of the Sword pitch. I like to place a nut and a cam before launching into it. Photo of Kelly Franz by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Climber leading the Sword pitch. He's looking pretty comfortable for this being a crux section!

The Sail Flake, the final pitch of the Grand Wall (unless you're continuing up The Roman Chimneys). Photo of Alisdair Buchanan by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Starting up the Sword pitch from the fantastic belay at the top of the Split Pillar. Photo of Kelly Franz by Matthew Buckle, used with permission.

Top of Perry's layback - glad it hasn't rained yet, but still cold!

Tony leading Perry's Layback. Skipping every other bolt saves a lot of effort.

View of Howe sound from top of Perry's layback - on a chilly day, with rain threatening. I was climbing with a Canadian, who's better adapted to cold!<br>

Split Pillar, Sword, and Perry's Layback as seen from the base of The Grand Wall.

Bellygood Ledge, which traverses from the top of the Grand Wall route to the trees on the right (climbers') side of the wall. This ledge traverse is exposed enough that I wouldn't want to do this without a rope.

JD and Téa following on the Split Pillar.

Tough girl style on the Split Pillar (liebacking w/ a pack)

John climbing the tree at the beginning of the final pitch (the Seal Flake pitch).

Once the sustained part of the Split Pillar is done, you still have some climbing to do. Saving a #1 Camalot for this section is nice.

Looking for the dry foothold to finish P2.

Reachy bolt ladder leading to the bottom of the Split Pillar

John starting up the Split Pillar. Amazing pitch!

Aid pitch, standing on the dental-floss slings hurts the feet!

From the base of the Sword, looking down on Mercy Me (tiny red dots).

The aid pitch above the Sword, on a very cold day.

George Bracksieck leads pitch one of the wonderful Mercy Me dike.

Tristan and Gerhard on the Split Pillar, Grand Wall

A picture from a traverse on the Grand Wall Lite

Tony almost done on The Flats pitch above Perry's Layback.

Merriam checking out the reachy crux on the Flats pitch of the grand wall.

Fingers, hands, fists! The turducken of jamming pitches.

The final bit of climbing across the top of the Seal Flake. After this, a few feet to Bellygood Ledge!

Tony following the second pitch of Mercy Me on our way to the Grand Wall.

I hauled the pack at the Sword anchor and then aided the bolt ladder before bringing up the second. This worked pretty well.

Crippling toe pain usually ends the fun for me on long routes. My new super-sized Acopa JB's fixed that, making the cracks, faces, and trees fun.

Approaching the Split Pillar (fun with angles)

Corroded anchor at second belay of Mercy Me, June 5, 2005. All the anchors have this little problem to some degree. Easy to replace, if you know ahead of time. Bring some quick links and a wrench, if your interested.

Super-cool tree belay at the base of the Split Pillar

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