Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > Bugaboos > Howser Towers > S Howser Tower > Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

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Dennis Ellsohn jugging snowy iced up cracks on day 2. July 1979

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

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4.5 from 2 votes

Steven Lucarelli

Oct 13, 2006

“Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.”

2 Comments

Mark Michaels
Draper, UT

Mark Michaels Draper, UT

Good on ya Fred and Yvon. May 26, 2007

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

Benjamin Chapman Small Town, USA

wow...what awesome exposure. Yeah, great pioneering spirit Yvon and Fred. Jul 12, 2015

Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Tim and Grant nearing the top

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

launching off

On the great white headwall.

Great White Headwall.

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979

Perspectives<br>

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

Pitch 8.

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Starting up Pitch 11.

A group working the head wall cracks just above the bivy ledge. Not sure what they go at?
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August 2, 2017

Dennis Ellsohn jugging snowy iced up cracks on day 2. July 1979

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

Dennis Ellsohn at the bivy in July 1979

The awesome corner of Pitches 6-7.

From the summit looking North West during sunset

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Pitch 4.

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Pitch 6 or 7.

Glenn T. follows the second pitch of the BC, which climbs this 5.7 corner crack

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

At the split boulders which mark the start of the roped climbing.

Pitch 2.

Approaching the base of the ridge.

Pitch 3.

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

Pitch 12.

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

On the summit. A pair of rap bolts is just around the block Jon (in orange) is standing at in the photo.

Start of Pitch 6.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

Pitch 12.

Pitch 5.

First rappel at the top of the gully on pitch 15.

Pitch 12. Squeeze above.

Nate during our Patagonian conditions ascent. The chimneys on P12 were completely iced over so we opted for the cracks out left.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall