Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

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All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Howser Towers > South Howser Tower > Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

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The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

Perspectives<br>

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4.5 from 2 votes

Steven Lucarelli

Oct 13, 2006

“Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.”

2 Comments

Mark Michaels
Draper, UT

Mark Michaels Draper, UT

Good on ya Fred and Yvon. May 26, 2007

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

Benjamin Chapman Small Town, USA

wow...what awesome exposure. Yeah, great pioneering spirit Yvon and Fred. Jul 12, 2015

Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Tim and Grant nearing the top

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

On the great white headwall.

launching off

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Pitch 8.

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Perspectives<br>

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

Descent anchors beta

Pitch 14.

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979

From the summit looking North West during sunset

Pitch 5.

Pitch 4.

Pitch 3.

Pitch 1.

At the split boulders which mark the start of the roped climbing.

At the Pigeon-Howser Col looking down into East Creek Basin.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

On the summit. A pair of rap bolts is just around the block Jon (in orange) is standing at in the photo.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

The awesome corner of Pitches 6-7.

Dennis Ellsohn at the bivy in July 1979

Approaching the base of the ridge.

Descent anchors

Pitch 2.

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

Glenn T. follows the second pitch of the BC, which climbs this 5.7 corner crack

5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

Great White Headwall.

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Pitch 9.

Pitch 6 or 7.

Start of Pitch 6.

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Starting up the headwall. When we climbed the route the next chimney section was the crux, as it was swamped with snow and ice! Full value fun!

Starting up Pitch 11.

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

Nate during our Patagonian conditions ascent. The chimneys on P12 were completely iced over so we opted for the cracks out left.

Pitch 12.