Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

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All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mounta… > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Howser Towers > South Howser Tower > Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

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Pitch 8.

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

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4.5 from 2 votes

Steven Lucarelli

Oct 13, 2006

“Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.”

2 Comments

Mark Michaels
Draper, UT

Mark Michaels Draper, UT

Good on ya Fred and Yvon. May 26, 2007

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA

Benjamin Chapman Small Town, USA

wow...what awesome exposure. Yeah, great pioneering spirit Yvon and Fred. Jul 12, 2015

Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Tim and Grant nearing the top

On the great white headwall.

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

launching off

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

Perspectives<br>

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

Pitch 8.

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall

Pitch 14.

Pitch 12. Squeeze above.

Pitch 12.

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

At the Pigeon-Howser Col looking down into East Creek Basin.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Starting up the headwall. When we climbed the route the next chimney section was the crux, as it was swamped with snow and ice! Full value fun!

Descent anchors beta

Descent anchors

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

First rappel at the top of the gully on pitch 15.

Great White Headwall.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

On the summit. A pair of rap bolts is just around the block Jon (in orange) is standing at in the photo.

Pitch 12.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

Pitch 13.

Glenn T. follows the second pitch of the BC, which climbs this 5.7 corner crack

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

Approaching the base of the ridge.

5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

Pitch 2.

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

Pitch 9.

At the split boulders which mark the start of the roped climbing.

Pitch 6 or 7.

Start of Pitch 6.

Pitch 1.

Pitch 3.

Starting up Pitch 11.

Pitch 4.

Nate during our Patagonian conditions ascent. The chimneys on P12 were completely iced over so we opted for the cracks out left.

Pitch 5.