On the great white headwall.

All Locations > International > North America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > The Bugaboos > Howser Towers > South Howser Tower > Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

On the great white headwall.

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launching off

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

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Devan Johnson

Aug 31, 2010

“On the great white headwall.”

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Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Tim and Grant nearing the top

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

launching off

On the great white headwall.

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

Pitch 8.

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Perspectives<br>

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall

Descent anchors

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

Pitch 13.

Pitch 12.

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Start of Pitch 6.

At the Pigeon-Howser Col looking down into East Creek Basin.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

Descent anchors beta

Pitch 6 or 7.

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

Starting up Pitch 11.

Nate during our Patagonian conditions ascent. The chimneys on P12 were completely iced over so we opted for the cracks out left.

At the summit- with Jon Winiasz. We crushed through adversity!!

Pitch 12.

Glenn T. follows the second pitch of the BC, which climbs this 5.7 corner crack

Pitch 12. Squeeze above.

5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

Pitch 14.

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

Approaching the base of the ridge.

First rappel at the top of the gully on pitch 15.

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

Pitch 2.

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

Pitch 9.

At the split boulders which mark the start of the roped climbing.

Starting up the headwall. When we climbed the route the next chimney section was the crux, as it was swamped with snow and ice! Full value fun!

Great White Headwall.

Pitch 1.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Pitch 3.

On the summit. A pair of rap bolts is just around the block Jon (in orange) is standing at in the photo.

Pitch 4.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.