Starting up Pitch 11.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia-Shushwap > Bugaboos > Howser Towers > S Howser Tower > Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

Starting up Pitch 11.

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Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

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Steph Abegg

Aug 1, 2016

“Starting up Pitch 11.”

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Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

"Glaciers and Forest Fire" Starting the raps on a beautiful August evening. Photo credit Evan Ludmer

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.

launching off

Tim and Grant nearing the top

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979

On the great white headwall.

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979 - photo by Dennis Ellsohn

A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979

A group working the head wall cracks just above the bivy ledge. Not sure what they go at?
<br>
August 2, 2017

From the summit looking North West during sunset

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Perspectives<br>

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Starting up Pitch 11.

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

The Becky-Chouinard ridge catching a striking last light. Taken from summit ridge of North Howser. August 2023

Dennis Ellsohn jugging snowy iced up cracks on day 2. July 1979

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Freeing the headwall traverse with a decent .75 placement midway.

At the split boulders which mark the start of the roped climbing.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

The awesome corner of Pitches 6-7.

Pitch 5.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

Pitch 14.

Lost in the sauce of the corners on the Great White Headwall.

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

BC in all its glory

Pitch 8.

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Rap route off S. Howser Tower, from sign hanging in Kain Hut.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Top out majesty

Starting up the headwall. When we climbed the route the next chimney section was the crux, as it was swamped with snow and ice! Full value fun!

Approaching the base of the ridge.

Descent anchors

First rappel at the top of the gully on pitch 15.

Pitch 3.

Pitch 4.

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

Pitch 12. Squeeze above.

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

Pitch 13.

Starting up the route

Pitch 12.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall

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