On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > Bugaboos > Howser Towers > S Howser Tower > Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

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A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979

Starting up Pitch 11.

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Steph Abegg

Aug 1, 2016

“On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser. ”

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Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Tim and Grant nearing the top

On the great white headwall.

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

launching off

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Great White Headwall.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

Pitch 8.

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Starting up Pitch 11.

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

Dennis Ellsohn jugging snowy iced up cracks on day 2. July 1979

Perspectives<br>

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

Start of Pitch 6.

Descent anchors beta

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

Pitch 1.

At the summit- with Jon Winiasz. We crushed through adversity!!

Pitch 2.

Approaching the base of the ridge.

The awesome corner of Pitches 6-7.

Pitch 5.

Pitch 4.

Pitch 3.

Starting up the headwall. When we climbed the route the next chimney section was the crux, as it was swamped with snow and ice! Full value fun!

Nate during our Patagonian conditions ascent. The chimneys on P12 were completely iced over so we opted for the cracks out left.

Glenn T. follows the second pitch of the BC, which climbs this 5.7 corner crack

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

Pitch 9.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

At the Pigeon-Howser Col looking down into East Creek Basin.

Descent anchors

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

First rappel at the top of the gully on pitch 15.

Pitch 12.

Pitch 6 or 7.

Pitch 12.

On the summit. A pair of rap bolts is just around the block Jon (in orange) is standing at in the photo.

Pitch 12. Squeeze above.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.