On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

All Locations > International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Columbia Mountains > Purcell Mountains > Bugaboos > Howser Towers > S Howser Tower > Beckey-Chouinard (5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b)

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

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Pitch 5.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

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Steph Abegg

Aug 1, 2016

“On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser. ”

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Nearby Photos

South Howser from the approach to the Beckey-Chouinard

What could be better than getting Fred's blessing before hiking in to climb South Howser?

Tim and Grant nearing the top

Route Overlay Beckey-Chouinard.

The dihedral on the lower part of the BC, with the headwall above.

Starting the raps on a beautiful August evening. Photo credit Evan Ludmer

On the great white headwall.

launching off

Great White Headwall. This is not the BC route. It is harder. But looks way cool.

Erik & Felix super stoked to be on the summit of South Howser Tower.

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

A long walk awaited us that night. We were camped at a small tarn above Cobalt Lake. Took about three hours to get there. July 1979

Peter Cole at the top of the B-C/South Howser Tower, July 1979

Tension traverse (or 5.10 free) at start of Pitch 15.

Looking up from the base of the rap route.

A rimed up view of the route after a four day storm. July 1979

Harz on the tricky traverse above the headwall.

Looking down at the lower part of the Beckey-Chouinard from the top of pitch 11.

Can use these pins for the tension traverse at start of Pitch 15.

A group working the head wall cracks just above the bivy ledge. Not sure what they go at?
<br>
August 2, 2017

Starting up Pitch 11.

Perspectives<br>

Dennis Ellsohn jugging snowy iced up cracks on day 2. July 1979

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall climbs a short 5.10 offwidth/fist crack, then up these steep 5.9 cracks to the belay

Pitch 8.

Pitch 5.

On the rap route. With the wind and the lower angle of the first half of the rappel route, we decided to rap the first half with a single 70 rather than double ropes. The basic idea for Rappels 1-3 is to stay on the ridge and don't wander towards North Howser.

Partial solar eclipse taken through a pair of very sweaty cardboard eclipse glasses from the top of Pitch 9.

The rap route puts you on flat glacier.

The awesome corner of Pitches 6-7.

Sunset on the big bivy ledge below the headwall.

Samuel somewhere on the slabby, White Headwall

Beckey-Chouinard, South Howser<br>
Photo by Mtn. Proj. contributor Timmy! Tormey

5.6 gully on Pitch 15 after tension traverse.

Descent anchors beta

At the Pigeon-Howser Col looking down into East Creek Basin.

Pitch 2.

At the split boulders which mark the start of the roped climbing.

Rappels 4-5 go down this corner system that faces North Howser.

Pitch 3.

Pitch 11 up Great White Headwall.

Me at the rap station after the crux pitch

Bivy site below Great White Headwall.

Pitch 10. The right-hand crack is a bit easier.

Glenn T. follows the second pitch of the BC, which climbs this 5.7 corner crack

Pitch 4.

The climb ends with ~150-200m of 4th + several short 5th class moves.

At the top of Pitch 15, make a 20m rappel to the right to easier blocky terrain.

On the summit. A pair of rap bolts is just around the block Jon (in orange) is standing at in the photo.

Pitch 1.

From the summit looking North West during sunset

Start of Pitch 6.

Dennis Ellsohn at the bivy in July 1979

Pitch 12.

Approaching the base of the ridge.

Descent anchors

Pitch 12.

Nate during our Patagonian conditions ascent. The chimneys on P12 were completely iced over so we opted for the cracks out left.

The first pitch of the Great White Headwall

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