Avg: 3.9 from 173 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 15 pitches, Grade IV|
|FA:||Fred Beckey, Yvon Chouinard, August 1961|
|Page Views:||111,482 total · 671/month|
|Shared By:||Steven Lucarelli on Oct 12, 2006|
|Admins:||Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford|
P1: From a slab on the right side of the ridge climb up cracks and flakes to the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)
P2: Continue up the ridge crest and belay. (5.5)
P3: Keep climbing the crest until it steepens then follow cracks and grooves to the left of the crest to a belay ledge. (5.7)
P4: Climb just to the right of the crest following a finger and hand crack through a small bulge (5.10-) continue up to a small ledge and belay.
P5: Follow cracks just to the left of the ridge to easy ground. Continue up a flake and chimney to the left of the crest and belay on a sloping ledge. (5.8)
P6: Traverse right on an handrail to a large left facing dihedral. Climb up the dihedral and belay in a little alcove behind a jagged block. (5.8)
P7: Continue up the dihedral to a crack that leads to a large ledge covered with scree. (5.8)
P8: Climb up the scree ledge to its upper end and belay at a bivy site.
P9: Climb a chimney and follow cracks through blocks, belay near the bottom of a steep wall. (5.6)
P10: To the left follow a short but difficult crack to a ledge, traverse right to some opposing dihedrals and climb the right dihedral to a large flat ledge. (5.8)
P11: This is the start of the upper headwall pitches, referred to as the Great White Headwall. On the left side of the ledge climb a strenuous hand and fist crack up a right facing corner to a ledge. Continue up a another crack in a left facing corner till you are able to climb out left onto a steep face to a belay ledge out left. (5.10)
P12: Climb up above the belay and make a balance move right into a corner. Follow the corner past some blocks and a squeeze that's hard but can be done with a pack on. Belay at the base of a gully. (5.10)
P13: Climb up the gully to where it steepens turning into a corner. Follow the second crack on the left wall and belay at the bottom of a right facing corner. (5.9)
P14: Follow the long right facing dihedral to a two pin anchor in a small notch. (5.8)
P15: This is the crux pitch which can be aided but I didn't think it felt to hard. Traverse out left on thin holds and make a difficult move around the arete. Continue up an easy gully to its top and belay. The traverse can also be tensioned at A0. (5.10 or A0)
From the top of the Gully make one rappel off a nest of slings and follow fourth and easy fifth class terrain to the true summit. To descend find the first rap anchor to the east of the summit and make 6 double rope rappels to the glacier. There are numerous rap anchors on the east face so keep an eye out and make sure your ropes reach to the glacier below the bergshrund on the last rap before you commit to it. Some parties put in a V-thread because their ropes didn't reach.