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Bay Area moderate cracks

Jack H · · Livermore, CA · Joined Aug 2020 · Points: 0

I know this thread is old, but in case anyone is looking for useful information, here are my favorite moderate bay area cracks:

Castle rock 

-waterfall cliff

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/111943100/degeneration-left

More of a layback thank a true crack climb

Castle rock

 - chew tooth

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105735350/hand-crack

Good hand crack in a corner, I learned how to use jamming and stemming together on this one, does have a slab move protected by a bolt at the top

Boy scout rocks

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105734693/chimney

For someone new this one is probably best top roped off the tree (theres two hangerless bolts up there too) but this chimney is a very good learning opportunity. I would not have a beginner lead this one, the gear and climbing is a bit awkward for someone with little experience. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/108310699/diablo-jam

Another hand crack in a corner. Top roping is best, I lead it and ended up doing a silly traverse right to get to a bolted anchor, I think going straight up is 5.10a?

I've heard there's good cracks a summit rock at castle rock, but I have not been to check it out.

Cole Ing · · CA · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 235

Also at Boy Scout Rocks:

Moderates:

Beach Crack - 5.7 - Short, sandy crack, but easily protected.  Makes a good lead for a newer climber.

Chouinard's Crack - 5.9 - Funky, flaring wide crack that can be jammed using a number of techniques.  Last 1/3 of climb is unprotected face climbing in a seam, but easier.

Mt. Diablo's best cracks:

Diagonal Crack - 5.10c - Longer, left leaning crack, often with good jams.  Climb through sandy pods, sometimes with questionable pro.  A nest of bats lives deep in the crack, half way up this climb.

Ozone - 5.10c - My personal favorite.  Lieback and chicken wing up the initial offwidth crack.  Pull a roof into a hand and finger crack above.  This thing felt like a massive sandbag before I knew how to jam.  Now the grade feels about right.  Makes for a very satisfying lead.

Christopher Clay · · Berkeley, CA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 0

In Oakland, near Lake Temescal, is the Golden Gate Wall, a long stone masonry traversing wall.  Worthy in its own right.  Just uphill from that is a 30 ft concrete expansion crack.  Easy to walk up top and top rope off the railing.  Tight hands, 5.10.  Slippery feet.

Kevin Crum · · Oakdale · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 56

a crack in the bay?

better get on it before it  falls over, youtube.com/watch?v=5PywRnB…

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northern California
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