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Routes in Chew Tooth

Center Route S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hand Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thin Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Uncle Fred's Vacation Plan S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 30 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,507 total · 8/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 3, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

Climb the hand crack up the right side of the Chew tooth.The crack bends a little after the first 8 feet, and this isthe crux. Top out onto the first ledge, and then continueto the top using one bolt and a reacy move to mantle over.

Protection

Bring one bolt and several medium-sized Friends for the crack. Top anchoring can use from interesting slinging from the top anchors on the rock, or good use of the tree that sits behind the top of this route.

Photos

Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Pretty short! Sep 12, 2006
Jennifer H
  5.8 PG13
Jennifer H  
  5.8 PG13
Fun, short stemming route. Good warmup if you do it a couple of times. Aug 3, 2009
kel
kel  
A bit awkward as a top rope route - the bolts are pretty far to the left, closer to the other climbs. This makes the traverse at the end very swimgy if you fall. Jun 3, 2017
George Labaria
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.9
George Labaria   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.9
Felt more like an off-width, but maybe I did it wrong. Stemming keeps it manageable. The upper part of the crack near the first ledge needs a #5 or #6 to protect adequately (one could possibly get a small off-set nut or off-set cam in the small flaring crack on the face). Placed a #4 DMM hex, #3 BD cam, and #4 BD cam on lead. Sep 7, 2018

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