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Routes in Upper Tier
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A-3 TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Chouinard's Crack T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Devil's Arete TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pebbly Face TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Pie Crust T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Route Formerly Known as Face, The T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 7,451 total · 30/month |
| Shared By: | Aron Quiter on Jul 21, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Falcon Nesting Closure at Castle Rock
Details
Castle Rock in Pine Canyon is closed for peregrine falcon nesting season, from February 1 through July 31st every year. All other Mount Diablo area crags are open to climbing. The news release is linked here parks.ca.gov/NewsRelease/493.
Description
This is the prominent crack on the mid-left side of the upper tier. Crux is an interesting section about 25 feet off the ground. Remember to look to your right for additional hands and feet!
Keep in mind that you're leading sandstone before running out your protection.
[NOTE TO ADMIN: taking out the part about the tree - tree is gone now]
Protection
The lower half of the crack takes cams up to 5 inches (so borrow your friend-who-climbs-in-Yosemite's #5 camalot). The upper half is easy but unprotectable.
There are two bolts for top-roping. These can be accessed on foot at the top of the crack (scoot down on your butt for extra safety). You'll need to extend the anchor by about 5 feet in order to prevent scarring the rock with your rope.
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