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Best cracks around

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Randy P · · Nevada · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 105

Looking for in your opinion best cracks to get on 2024 I’ve been on a lot of them but I’m just trying to see how many I’ve missed or just don’t know about yet! Any feed back is great

Jeff Young · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 10

I might suggest being a little more specific with your request.  For example, are you looking to climb single pitch, multi-pitch, in the alpine, anywhere in the PNW, etc.?

Looks like you’ve been to Trout, some of the best pure 5.10-.12+ (and harder) cracks in the PNW are certainly found there. There is another crag, Bills Columns, nearby that has some nice cracks as well. Albeit, the routes are a little shorter and probably not as high quality as the best of the routes at Trout.

I’ve heard Moolack has some nice adventurous crack climbing as well, although I’ve never been there personally.

Lots of options in Washington obviously, many of which you appear to already be familiar with. Sure do wish we had a little more Granite in Oregon.



Randy P · · Nevada · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 105

I guess I mean anything on Washington side of the pnw,  trout is great I do need to go back and try some of the harder stuff! I don’t mind alpine multi pitch or single pitch, I’d like to stay closer to 11+ 13-  

Grant Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 164

Your climbing above my pay-grade and it looks like you are ticking things off at index so I'l recommend some zones off the main circuit. I hear wildcat wall in Tieton is awesome and have wanted to check it out and has a bunch in that range. Also been wanting to check out the North Fork Cliff. Theres also a bunch of highly rated crack climbs in that range near Coal Mt. Cool area and something away from the main destinations in WA.

There is an endless amount of fun alpine stuff around: Prusik (Stanley-Burgner was awesome and cant recommend enough), Stewart, Colchuck Balanced Rock, West face of North Early Winter Spire, SEWs (new 5.13) all have highly rated routes in your range. Or go back way there an do something on Bear, Gunsight, or something in BC

If thats the range you are eyeing and interested in alpine stuff, Cascades Rock by Blake Herrington is the guidebook to get if you dont have it already. Lots of stellar stuff in that range.

The northeast corner of WA has a lot of cool areas that get less traffic if your in an exploratory mood. Definitelly worth checking out the mountain project map and zooming around.

Randy P · · Nevada · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 105

Thank you grant Adam looks like you pointed me in a good direction!! I’ve been to wild cat many time will be there more!! Really just looking for the can’t miss kinda crack your right about bc I see there are lot of really sweet looking stuff out there! Will be making a trip there soon!  Index is great even tho now it’s choss lol 

Grant Adams · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 164

Oh yeah, for sure you should have eyes towards BC if your looking for the can't miss kinda cracks. I'd spend a lot of time in Squamish (3 hours from Seattle) if you haven't gone and do:

High Plains Drifter

Rainy Day Dream Away

Crime of the Century

Exasperator

Zen Garden

Mercy Street

and more....

Top Roper · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 70

Serpentine crack on  liberty bell 

Jon Nelson · · Redmond, WA · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 8,763

If you've done the good ones at the Lower Town Wall at Index, head up to the Upper and Lookout P-. 

At the Upper Town Wall, there are excellent ones on Earwax wall, some new ones at the right end of the Madsen's Ledge, several excellent ones around Wilman's Walkabout, the Lower Cheeks, and on the Beach. Someone recently posted Nonlocal Barkhouse. It may need brushing, but is excellent. Some great ones on the various Lookout Point crags that are also well worth the hike such as Index Not LA, the Cringe, Shader, Cattalk, Money, Strange Boar, Cattalk jr. 

Randy P · · Nevada · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 105

I appreciate it all! Thanks peeps the input it’s great! 

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,202

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/119350126/the-pink-panther

Pink Panther 5.13- at Beacon Rock

go nab the third ascent (Beacon is only 3 hours from Kennewick)

There's at least a dozen immaculate trad/crack climbs 5.11+ to 5.13- at Beacon

Helena T · · Leavenworth, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 177

Grant is definitely spot on with his recommendation of Squamish, If you want to climb 12- to 5.12+ cracks, Squamish is the best destination in the PNW imo. The other good option would be Trout Creek but the cracks are generally pretty sharp and painful and the season is relatively short. Index Cracks at that grade are relatively limited, you've got Bobcat Cringe, Stern Farmer, Errol Flynn in the 5.12 range and Iron Horse, Japanese Gardens in the 11+ range. There's probably a few other Index routes but these are the most popular ones at the grades.

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,201

Top Shader, Keith's Crack, Black Cat Bone, and Clay also come to top of mind for quality hard cracks at Index, and I'm sure there's many more.

ethan parra · · Portland · Joined Sep 2023 · Points: 50

I need a good trad route that is 5.8 or easier for some beginners all of oregon is fine but I want it at a well-known spot .

Dan Bookless · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 2,202
ethan parrawrote:

I need a good trad route that is 5.8 or easier for some beginners all of oregon is fine but I want it at a well-known spot .

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106869037/ophelia

Ophelia 5.8 

Shakespear wall in the Lower Gorge at Smith is probably my favorite place for easy/moderate trad/crack climbs around

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110356712/smokin

Smokin 5.8

Schoolroom Cracks at Pete's Pile is also a good place to take beginners for easy trad/crack climbs

ethan parra · · Portland · Joined Sep 2023 · Points: 50

thank so much fo the routes.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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