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Routes in South Gully

Mercy Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,673 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brian Alexander on Mar 24, 2010
Admins: Nate Ball, Kate Lynn

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16 Opinions

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Access Issue: Illegal Camping Details

Description

A two pitch crack that unfortunately seeps water except for after extended dry weather. The second pitch is a classic lieback dihedral comparable to the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall. This route is in the Kevin Mclane book but not in the Squamish Select book. Route begins a bit past Rock On, on the left wall. The first pitch of the Opal is now considered the standard start (5.8).

Protection

Double rack to #1 camalot. As many #2 and #3 camalots as you feel like you need. Most mortals will probably want at least 3 x #2 and 3 x #3 camalots. There is about 70' of sustained hands to big hands in a corner. First '50 of the second pitch is mostly fingers to big fingers. A old BD #3.5 fit perfectly before the move to the anchor, and it looked like a new #4 camalot would as well.

Photos

Brian Alexander  
5.10b
Photos are available on Eric and Lucy's Bus Trip Mar 25, 2010
One of the best 10- in squish and a testpiece for the grade

Doubles from fingers to big blue camalot ... An extra big yellow or blue camalot useful depending on which finish you take ... Also eats small-mid sized nuts like a famished squirrel

Two ropes to rappel

;) Jul 24, 2015
Sherri Lewis
Sequim, WA
 
Sherri Lewis   Sequim, WA
 
This route is AMAZING! Shame that it is not in the Select Guide (it's not in my older version, at least, but maybe it made the cut for the new book).

Despite its intimidating appearance, rests can be found where needed and jams can be interspersed with the laybacking to minimize the pump factor.

Doubles to #2, if you take four or five #3's, you'll find places for all of them. If you only take two #3's, be prepared to do a bit of bumping or backcleaning. An old #3.5 nicely protects the last move to the anchors. (A #4 might work as well, but we didn't carry one with us.)

The 5.8 approach pitch is a pleasant warm up.

One double-rope rap with 60m's gets you to the ground. Aug 3, 2015
geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
geoff georges   Seattle, Wa.
  5.10b
Sherri, we are always on the same tour, this time a couple of days off. This is an awesome line.
I wanted to do this before, always too wet, now is the time, also great one for avoiding the sun.
If you are going to switch back and forth from lay-back to jamming I would say TAPE GLOVES.
Looks to me like Brian added this route without climbing it, who adds a route and says unsure about the gear? Both of above posting covered this. I thought 3) #2 great to have, 2)#3 camalot.
It could also be added :
FA: Kirt Sellers, Bill Noble, 1986.
This is on the Opal wall.
The original start is dirty and pretty scary looking, the Opal 1st pitch is used. 5.8/5.9
We used a tag line as suggested for double rope rap, but a single 70m would work using the 1st pitch anchor for 2 raps. Aug 4, 2015
Andy Laakmann
Bend, OR
  5.10b
Andy Laakmann   Bend, OR  
  5.10b
Mega good.

I was surprised to see how small the first 50' of the second pitch was.... primarily fingers to big fingers.

The top half of 2nd pitch will take as many #2s and #3 camalots that you can throw at it. A old BD #3.5 went in perfectly before the anchor. It looked like a #4 new style camalot would as well. Aug 22, 2015
Mark Roberts
Vancouver, BC
Mark Roberts   Vancouver, BC
I second the notion to only get on this after it's been extensively dry. I got on it mid-August and it was unpleasant. It rained about a week earlier, but I don't remember significant rainfall. If you climb year-round in Squamish you learn to endure a bit of wetness and I'm no stranger to climbing through wet sections, but this was different - it was thick with oozing mats of green slime for about 20 feet through the reds section. It was not great.

I think The Opal approach is now the go-to first pitch, which felt around 5.8/5.9 to me. From the ground it looks like the crack is overgrown between The Opal p1 and the Mercy Street anchor, but that's because the route traverses right before the shrubbery and transitions to easy face climbing. The jive-ass anchor at the top of p1 was a bit of a bummer, two rusty pitons and a single raw hanger. If it stays dry I'd like to get up here with a Hilti and put in a proper rap anchor, and also maybe an anchor on the face so one can rap with a single 60m.

The money pitch is sweet where it isn't wet, but the first 50 feet was a steep tips-to-fingers crack that I found quite challenging for the grade. Might recommend an extra red or yellow C3 for this section. Once the fingers section is over there's still a full pitch's worth of full on jamming, which I imagine is a lot more fun without the slime. I brought a #4 Camalot after seeing some of the comments here, but it barely fit in the roof. I guess it was fine, but a #3 would have probably been better. 3-bolt anchor, 2 with rap rings. Aug 17, 2016
Nate Redon
Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c
Nate Redon   Seattle, WA
  5.10b/c
Currently a tad moist but climbable. Awesome route. Aug 3, 2017

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