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Mercy Street
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.9 from 32
votes
Routes in South Gully
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Mercy Street T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Mushy Peas T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Opal, The T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13 |
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Trad Climbing Goof T 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 49.687, -123.1444 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 4,001 total · 21/month |
| Shared By: | Brian 1 on Mar 24, 2010 |
| Admins: | Mark Roberts, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra |
Access Issue: Camping
Details
VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING
Within District Boundaries
The District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.
Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.
The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.
· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)
· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff
· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”
Outside of District Boundaries
If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;
· Stays are limited to 14 days.
· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.
· Strictly observe any current fire bans.
DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS
Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.
Recommended affordable camping:
- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required
Description
A two pitch crack that unfortunately seeps water except for after extended dry weather. The second pitch is a classic lieback dihedral comparable to the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall. This route is in the Kevin Mclane book but not in the Squamish Select book. Route begins a bit past Rock On, on the left wall. The first pitch of the Opal is now considered the standard start (5.8).
Protection
Double rack to #1 camalot. As many #2 and #3 camalots as you feel like you need. Most mortals will probably want at least 3 x #2 and 3 x #3 camalots. There is about 70' of sustained hands to big hands in a corner. First '50 of the second pitch is mostly fingers to big fingers. A old BD #3.5 fit perfectly before the move to the anchor, and it looked like a new #4 camalot would as well.
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