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In search of overhung splitter

Original Post
Evan Salfelder · · Loveland, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

I've been scrolling the web, and scouring route descriptions and photos on MP in search of a overhung #2 splitter crack and have yet to find what I'm looking for. Maybe someone here will know a route. No corners, minimal offset, no fingers, and vertical. I'm imagining an arching face that starts off near vertical and then leans back to a pretty steep angle, if not totally horizontal. I've seen off-widths like this as well as some finger cracks but nothing in solid hand size. There's got to be one crack like this somewhere in the desert around Indian Creek right?! 

Nick Budka · · Adirondacks · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

Desert gold, 5.11d a1 in red rock. If you do it all free it is ~5.13a, the first section of 5.12c thin crack is usually aided to access the roof crack which is about 2”. 

Nick Budka · · Adirondacks · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 212

Separate reality 11d is another roof crack that is hand sized. 

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168
J E · · Wherever · Joined May 2019 · Points: 312
Nick Budkawrote:

Desert gold, 5.11d a1 in red rock. If you do it all free it is ~5.13a, the first section of 5.12c thin crack is usually aided to access the roof crack which is about 2”. 

First thing that came to mind. There’s a pretty neat video out there of it

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432

Another vote for Desert Gold in Red Rock Canyon

Desert Gold - 13a

Alex Fischer · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 864

Atomic Indian near St George: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106663255/atomic-indian

Starts out as gently overhaning 3s, then 2s, then 1s, then a short cruxy 0.75 section right before the chains. Once the crack narrows to .75, you can stem which keeps it moderate.

Chris Henry · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 61

This might fit the bill. Depending on height, one weird finger-y or flared hand to gain slammer hands (widens from 2" to 3"). It gets wider after the turn of the roof.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106002801/interceptor

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147

There's an outstanding if not very long overhanging 5.11 hand to fist crack at Burst Rock up the Sonora Pass not far from Yosemite. They like to keep that stuff offline so you'd have to buy the book, join the Sonora Pass climbing forums, or message a 108 climber (such as myself) for the deets. 

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 723

Tales of Power is close to what you're looking for, but it's #1s


petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730
Evan Salfelder · · Loveland, CO · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 0

Thanks everyone for some awesome route suggestions! None are exactly what I was hoping for but a few are pretty close and really cool looking and I think Desert Gold has motivated me to build a crack machine. If only I had a celler... 

Crotch Robbins · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2003 · Points: 307
highaltitudeflatulentexpulsion · · Colorado · Joined Oct 2012 · Points: 35

Pitch 2 of Hoop Dancer?

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

This one has a couple inches of offset in the right side, but climbs as a splitter. About 40 degrees. No harder than low 11 I'd say, but I don't think I got it clean, so YMMV. The bad news is that it's a 4 hour, mostly off-trail hike into the ADK woods.

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 3,078
Matt Z · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Mar 2012 · Points: 179

Voodoo Child, p2

Critic's Choice would fit your bill except the bottom 1/2 is a finger crack. 

Annie Climbs · · Boulder, CO · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 52

Twitch?

2nd half of critics choice came to mind for me, too. So good!!

I can think of a few overhung 2’s in dihedrals…

Colonel Mustard · · Sacramento, CA · Joined Sep 2005 · Points: 1,257

Most men are. That’s science.

Alex Fischer · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 864
ryan climbs sometimes wrote:

Pitch 27? of the nose after changing corners 

This is a corner, not straight in, which OP specified he's looking for.

saign charlestein · · Tacoma WA · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 2,077

more monkey than funky. Risk brothers

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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