In search of overhung splitter
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I've been scrolling the web, and scouring route descriptions and photos on MP in search of a overhung #2 splitter crack and have yet to find what I'm looking for. Maybe someone here will know a route. No corners, minimal offset, no fingers, and vertical. I'm imagining an arching face that starts off near vertical and then leans back to a pretty steep angle, if not totally horizontal. I've seen off-widths like this as well as some finger cracks but nothing in solid hand size. There's got to be one crack like this somewhere in the desert around Indian Creek right?! |
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Desert gold, 5.11d a1 in red rock. If you do it all free it is ~5.13a, the first section of 5.12c thin crack is usually aided to access the roof crack which is about 2”. |
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Separate reality 11d is another roof crack that is hand sized. |
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Nick Budkawrote: First thing that came to mind. There’s a pretty neat video out there of it |
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Another vote for Desert Gold in Red Rock Canyon |
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Atomic Indian near St George: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106663255/atomic-indian Starts out as gently overhaning 3s, then 2s, then 1s, then a short cruxy 0.75 section right before the chains. Once the crack narrows to .75, you can stem which keeps it moderate. |
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This might fit the bill. Depending on height, one weird finger-y or flared hand to gain slammer hands (widens from 2" to 3"). It gets wider after the turn of the roof. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106002801/interceptor |
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There's an outstanding if not very long overhanging 5.11 hand to fist crack at Burst Rock up the Sonora Pass not far from Yosemite. They like to keep that stuff offline so you'd have to buy the book, join the Sonora Pass climbing forums, or message a 108 climber (such as myself) for the deets. |
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Tales of Power is close to what you're looking for, but it's #1s |
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Thanks everyone for some awesome route suggestions! None are exactly what I was hoping for but a few are pretty close and really cool looking and I think Desert Gold has motivated me to build a crack machine. If only I had a celler... |
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Pitch 2 of Hoop Dancer? |
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This one has a couple inches of offset in the right side, but climbs as a splitter. About 40 degrees. No harder than low 11 I'd say, but I don't think I got it clean, so YMMV. The bad news is that it's a 4 hour, mostly off-trail hike into the ADK woods. |
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Perhaps not quite what you're looking for, but perhaps close enough: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105717571/jolly-rancher Not anywhere near CO: https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106405603/supercrack-aka-crack-attack |
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Voodoo Child, p2 Critic's Choice would fit your bill except the bottom 1/2 is a finger crack. |
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2nd half of critics choice came to mind for me, too. So good!! |
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Most men are. That’s science. |
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ryan climbs sometimes wrote: This is a corner, not straight in, which OP specified he's looking for. |
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more monkey than funky. Risk brothers |







