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International
> N America
> Canada
> Quebec
> 15. Laurentides
> Val-David
> Mont-King
> 1. Amphitheatre
Le Toit de Ben
5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British
Avg: 4 from 7
votes
Routes in 1. Amphitheatre
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3e Lien [LINKUP] T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Ambiance S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Batman T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Batman Directe T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Faucon Rouge T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Faucon rouge directe T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hypoténuse T 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a PG13 |
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l'Amphithéâtre T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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L'unique T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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L'Éclair T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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La Bataille des Corbeaux (AKA: Le Tunnel du Toit) T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Le phénix S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Le Toit de Ben T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Perseverance T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Râteau de Chèvre T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tonnerre de Brest T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches |
| GPS: | 46.02638, -74.17914 |
| FA: | FA: Bernard Poisson (September 21st, 1958) FFA: François Roy (August 30, 1987) |
| Page Views: | 4,834 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Luc-514 on Sep 17, 2013 · Updates |
| Admins: | Richer Lariviere, Luc-514 |
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Access Issue: Site access fees - Frais d'accès
Details
This area is under the Parc Régional de Val-David Val-Morin administration, a daily fee is required to climb, hike, bike etc in the park, FQME members benefit from a rebate as well as group outings. parcregional.com
Description
The obvious crack splitting a 10m long horizontal roof just right of the Amphitheatre.
This world class route has it all: feet first climbing, a bat hang, an enduro section on good hand jams, and a powerful lip. It also protects well.
It was first aided in 1958 by Bernard Poisson using home made wooden pieces as protection. 30 years went by without anyone managing to free the route until the sequence was unlocked in 1987 by François Roy. It then stood as the park's hardest line for another decade.
Many climbers spend weeks rehearsing the pro and the moves, this route is a serious undertaking.
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