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Looking for the Softest 12s in the Front Range

Original Post
Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168

Looking to break into sport 12s this year and could use some confidence boosters at the start. Looking to hear what routes you flashed or got the onsight on and thought, "No way that's 12!"

The Master List (will keep this up to date as suggestions come in):

Golden:

Thank You Come Again

Badersaurus

Power Trip

Dia de Los Muertos

Monkey Pause

Speed Trap

Lyons:

Redneck Hero 

S Platte:

Backdoor Man

Snapping Station

Boulder:

Empire of the Fenceless

Days of Future Passed aka Our Future Has Passed

Boulder Quartz System

Free Fall

A Tall Cool One

Ft Collins

Red Hot Space Suit

Adam bloc · · San Golderino, Calirado · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,487

Redneck Hero, Backdoor Man, most of Devils Head if you have any footwork, the whole Graveyard crag, Empire of The Fenceless, Days of Future Past, Pubic Zirconium.

Regardless of number, they’re all a really good time with safe falls at the cruxes, maybe that’s enough to not notice the hard bits. Go get 'em!!

Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60

Power Trip at Anarchy Wall - Pumpy but I really dont think theres any one really hard move, just a matter of holding on to a pretty short route.

Alex Holmann · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 113

Another vote for redneck hero. Mostly huge jugs the whole way. Also just a super fun climb!

Prav C · · Arvada, CO · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 165

Dia de Los Muertos at the Graveyard in CCC. 5.10 climbing into a no hands rest into a 3 move V3 boulder problem. I'm actually not sure how that equates to 12a, but I'm not complaining!

Lee J · · Denver, CO · Joined Jun 2019 · Points: 0

Monkey Pause at the Monkey House in CCC. Anyone who can do a two move v3-4 boulder problem should have no trouble sending, and the crux is right off the ground so it's easy to work the moves. It's not the best route in the world, but a good one for confidence building. 

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168

Thanks everyone for the route suggestions, I updated the list!

LL2 · · Santa Fe, NM · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 174

I like your approach.

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

Boulder Quartz System

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

From the meme thread:

"It's not soft, it's just great access."

Credit A bloc

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Go to Red Rocks 

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168
Franck Veewrote:

From the meme thread:

...

An instant classic, loved it when it came up. I would agree that the metro area grades are softttttt.

pfwein Weinberg · · Boulder, CO · Joined May 2006 · Points: 71

A lot of people give Free Fall 11d and it's a pretty short crux, but it's worth doing (especially if you like shorter routes) regardless of grade, and you can also work on the 12a right next to it (Ripcord), which is prob harder, but maybe also soft :)  https://www.mountainproject.com/route/stats/105758413/free-fall

I'd recommend getting on 12a's in BoCan or CCC that get most the starts--as others have noted, both areas are regarded as somewhat soft on average (just talking sport for BoCan, the trad routes are generally solid old school).  So if you get on a high-quality 12a, it probably won't be super hard at least compared to some other areas, and at least you'll have fun.  

Maybe someone computer savvy could write a script to see which 12a routes are closest to being downgraded by user ticks.

Travis Bieber · · Fort Collins · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 1,810

Red Hot Space Suit, Poudre Canyon.

Liam Hogan · · Arvada, CO · Joined May 2017 · Points: 72

A Tall Cool One at Bowling Alley in Boco

Grug M · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 5

This is really sad. "I'm looking for the easiest way to get a 12 so I can brag to my friends I have climbed a 12". 

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168
Grug Mwrote:

This is really sad. "I'm looking for the easiest way to get a 12 so I can brag to my friends I have climbed a 12

It is sad, “I’m looking to break into a new grade and trying to remove the intimidation factor.”

I’m definitely not egotistical enough to think that anyone cares what I have climbed or what I plan to climb.

Dan CO · · Boulder, CO · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 60
Grug Mwrote:

This is really sad. "I'm looking for the easiest way to get a 12 so I can brag to my friends I have climbed a 12". 

This is what we call 'projecting' not to be confused with 'projecting'

Grug M · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 5
Cory Nwrote:

It is sad, “I’m looking to break into a new grade and trying to remove the intimidation factor.”

I’m definitely not egotistical enough to think that anyone cares what I have climbed or what I plan to climb.

"Its important to me that I tell my friends I am a 5.12 CLIMBER because I climbed the softest 5.12 possible." 

Cory N · · Monticello, UT · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 1,168
Grug Mwrote:

"Its important to me that I tell my friends I am a 5.12 CLIMBER because I climbed the softest 5.12 possible." 

hahahaha, you sound like a nice guy! Let's climb some time, did I tell you I am a 5.12 climber???

Brendan A · · Golden · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 115

I appreciate this list. If you are ever in Devils Head you should check out Snapping Station. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Colorado
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