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Leaving the US. Have a month for climbing. Where to go?

Original Post
Ven Popov · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 202

I'm moving to Europe in August, and my partner and I were originally planning to spend the whole of July doing alpine rock & ice climbs in the Alps. Our flights just got officially canceled, so we are switching gears and considering to do our month of climbing here before I leave. I have some ideas, but I was wondering. If you have 2-4 weeks in July, and could fly to anywhere in the US to climb for that duration, where would YOU go? We're looking for remote alpine adventures, could be long rock/ice routes ideally at elevation. Last August I was climbing in the Cirque of Towers, Wind Rivers for a week, and that was amazing. We're thinking maybe head to Rainier and surrounding areas, the Cascades, or the Tetons. But I'd love to hear any other ideas! Just nothing Big Wall, because neither of us have the gear or experience for that. But anything else is fair game (climbing ability - up to 5.10a trad, WI4 ice, M4, prefer long remote moderate routes ).

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Paging JCM, paging JCM...please come to the white courtesy phone.

He's the de facto travel agent for MP. :)

Ezra Ellis · · Hotlanta · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Elephants perch- sawtooths Idaho
Finger of fate- sawtooths Idaho 
Wind river mountains
Tetons are not bad
icicle Creek canyon - Leavenworth 
Tons of stuff in the north cascades
have fun

Scoot Bank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 873
Ezra Ellis wrote: Elephants perch- sawtooths Idaho
Finger of fate- sawtooths Idaho
Be careful if you go to the sawtooths. There was a large earthquake there this spring and many routes may have been altered and/or are now dangerous. The summit block on the finger of fate fell off 
Todd R · · Vansion · Joined May 2014 · Points: 56

What about The Bugs if the US/Canada border is good to go?

Ven Popov · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 202
Todd the Tangler wrote: What about The Bugs if the US/Canada border is good to go?

I'm on a student visa here and just finished my program. I have 60 days grace period, but if I leave I can't come back, so difficult to fit a trip internationally before moving!

Nick Niebuhr · · CO · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 465

If you're into remote, check out the Picket range in the Cascades. I dunno if there's much info on MP, Summitpost might be better for that. Very remote and lots of beautiful alpine moderates.

Ven Popov · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 202
Nick Niebuhr wrote: If you're into remote, check out the Picket range in the Cascades. I dunno if there's much info on MP, Summitpost might be better for that. Very remote and lots of beautiful alpine moderates.

The Picket Range looks amazing, thanks for the pointers. That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm giddy with excitement just looking at photos from there!


Thanks for the other suggestions here as well! The cascades it is. Will p|obably do the Torment-forbidden traverse, a week or more in the Picket range, another week in the enchantment area, and one of the bigger routes on either baker or Rainier. Hoping we get lucky with the weather! 
JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115
FrankPS wrote: Paging JCM, paging JCM...please come to the white courtesy phone.

He's the de facto travel agent for MP. :)

Someone called?

OP would have a blast in the Cascades. There is the "roadside alpine" of WA Pass, big ridge climbs in the Stuart Range, backcountry adventures in the North Cascades, glacier slogging on volcanoes, and easy-access cragging (Mazama, Index, etc.) to fill in time between big outings -- just to name a few of the choices. There is a lot to choose from within the types of climbing they are interested in.  A great place to be in the summer. Buy the Cascades Rock guidebook.

Another absolutely amazing option  - the High Sierra. The best quality (and quantity) of alpine granite in the US, and the most reliable alpine weather also. You could alternate between big backcountry rock outings in the High Sierra, and mellower periods of multipitch cragging at Tuolumne Meadows and Lovers Leap.

Which place to visit? While it would be possible to do a split-trip with 2 weeks in the Cascades and 2 weeks in the Sierra, it would be better to commit to one of the ranges for the full period and get to know it well. The Sierra offer better alpine-rock climbing options and more reliable weather. Whereas the Cascades allow you to have a mix of alpine rock climbing and glacier/volcano climbing. Both are amazing - you can't go wrong with either - so it really just depends on what experience you are looking for.

Other note: For the Enchantments (Cascades), and many trailheads in the Sierra, be aware of permit requirements for backcountry camping. These range for mildly inconvenient to a total showstopper, depending on location. Do your research before you go.  Also, regarding potential logistical problems, you'll want to research the current impacts of Covid on access to each area.
cnadel · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 5
Ven Popov wrote:

The Picket Range looks amazing, thanks for the pointers. That's exactly what I was looking for. I'm giddy with excitement just looking at photos from there!


Thanks for the other suggestions here as well! The cascades it is. Will p|obably do the Torment-forbidden traverse, a week or more in the Picket range, another week in the enchantment area, and one of the bigger routes on either baker or Rainier. Hoping we get lucky with the weather! 

Be advised that you need a much-coveted permit to camp in the Enchantments. You might also consider spending some time at Washington Pass if you’re going to be in the North Cascades. 

Ezra Ellis · · Hotlanta · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Strike the finger of fate off your list,

there won’t be an obvious rapel off the top

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

I'd go to the major cities and see the cultural attractions and divey food spots that only locals know.  Kinda like Anthony Bourdain, but without the dumb tattoos, opining about prior drug use, and suicide.

Ven Popov · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 202

Thanks, JCM, for the really detailed post! 

Redyns wrote: I'd go to the major cities and see the cultural attractions and divey food spots that only locals know.  Kinda like Anthony Bourdain, but without the dumb tattoos, opining about prior drug use, and suicide.

This holds literally 0 interest to me. If I'm in an area, I'll check it out, but visiting cities for cities' sake has no appeal to me whatsoever. I did ask "where would YOU go" so there's that :) 

Ben Horowitz · · Bishop, CA / Tokyo, JP · Joined Aug 2014 · Points: 147

I haven't been to the Cascades, but spent a fair amount of time in the High Sierra. It is certainly my favorite place in the universe, so many long classic rock moderates on such amazing rock! But if you are interested in snowy climbs there isn't too much for July climbing (Shasta, a few couloirs around the Sierras might be in nice conditions). 

Ven Popov · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 202

I'd certainly like to come back and spend some time in the Sierra as well - I have unfinished business with Whitney's East Buttress, which we attempted last March, but bailed on due to verglass! The Fishhook Arete on Russel looked amazing from afar as well. I know there are many other lovely areas in the Sierras as well, with less red tape. But I was really stoked for some classic snow/ice/mixed routes in the Alps, so the Cascades (especially the north) seem to be the closest to that this time of year!

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60
Ven Popov wrote: Thanks, JCM, for the really detailed post!

This holds literally 0 interest to me. If I'm in an area, I'll check it out, but visiting cities for cities' sake has no appeal to me whatsoever. I did ask "where would YOU go" so there's that :) 

i'd feel the same way if my city's main attractions were Primanti Brothers and the Dusquene Light Incline.   

Ven Popov · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 202
Redyns wrote:

i'd feel the same way if my city's main attractions were Primanti Brothers and the Dusquene Light Incline.   

Ha, fair! I'm not from Pittsburgh, though, just live here. Might not be a great city to visit, but it's a great place to live in (aside from the lack of actual mountains). I've been to my fair share of US and Canadian cities. And European ones (I'm originally from Europe). I travel a lot for work. Exploring cities is just not my thing. That doesn't invalidate your interests in any way, of course.

Gerald Adams · · Sacramento · Joined May 2019 · Points: 0

How about the Cirque of the Unclimbables  ? Take a look at Fifty Classic Climbs of North America. Have a great trip ! 

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

beartooths in july could be nice

https://www.climbing.com/places/a-bit-of-heaven-in-montanas-beartooth-mountains/

Ven Popov · · Pittsburgh, PA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 202

Thanks for the recs, everyone! My partner had to leave early, but we had a blast for 16 days in the Cascades! We climbed:

- Rainier via the Kautz Glacier - we were alone on the route, which was crazy and cool. No bootpack, no line of people, just a nearly virgin mountain landscape. Summit at 7:20am!
- The Complete North Ridge of Mt Stuart (lower+upper, but skipped the gendarme). 2 days with a planned bivy between the lower and upper ridge.
- We attempted the Torment-Forbidden Traverse, but got weathered out. Climbed Sahale peak on the way out
- South Early Winters Spire via the Southwest Rib
- Liberty Bell via Rapple Grapple
- Cutthroat peak via the South Buttress
- A one day car-to-car link-up of the West Ridge of Paisano Pinnacle + North Face of Burgundy Spire

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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