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North Face
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 2.7 from 54
votes
Routes in Burgundy Spire
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Action Potential T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Ultramega OK T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 8,236 total · 70/month |
| Shared By: | Kip Kasper on Jul 31, 2011 |
| Admins: | Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July
Details
Peregrine falcons select nest sites on cliffs in the Upper Skagit Valley, including the Climbing Management Areas of Newhalem West (Ryan’s Wall) and Newhalem East. As required in the NPS Superintendent’s Compendium, these areas will be closed to all public from March 1st to July 15th of each year, or until the young falcons have fledged or NPS staff have determined that nesting will not occur on a specific wall during this period. Access Fund, Washington Climbers Coalition and NPS partner on a volunteer raptor monitoring program to determine nesting activity. Contact the NPS and/or WCC for updates.
Description
P1-2 scramble up 4th with the occasional mid 5th move to the broad sandy ledge connecting with paisano pinnacle.
P3-4 climb up the right side of the wide open bowl, being careful of the loose and exfoliating flakes. Aim for the obvious horn with tat around it above. You can go pretty much anywhere. I started up the center, got sketched by the looseness and traversed to the left, then climbed back right on decomposing thin shit with no gear. the right side looked more straightforward and thats the way the rap route goes. the top is really fun 5.8
At this point the route reaches a big ledge, giving you many options. The most straightforward route climbs off the far right side, after scrambling under a chockstone head up for 2 pitches of 5.8ish climbing to the summit. This is also the way the rap route goes.
However, if you have the time I recommend heading off to the left once you hit the ledge. (This may be part of the corkscrew route, someone else can chime in and tell me if I'm right or wrong)
P5 Aim for the clean handcrack in a flare which is about 5.fun, or scramble around it at low 5th to the left. gain the ridgetop and head out for some stellar exposed 5.7-8 face climbing complete with a original sketch 1/4in bolt put in 50 or so years ago. the climbing isn't hard, just wild and fun. belay at a slung block.
P6 Continue up the ridge, making fun moves up the sharp arete to a perfect handcrack. let out a few ecstatic yells and then get ready for the semi unpleasant part. downclimbing. there are 3 or 4 downclimbs, all can be easily followed by the 2nd if precautions are taken (don't be a dick and skip clipping tat or placing gear if you're leading) go as far as you can until rope drag becomes unbearable and belay. Wildly exposed 5.7 with annoying downclimbs.
P7 (or maybe 8 if you didn't go far enough you may have to do another short traversing pitch) There's a fun looking 5.10 offwidth that goes right to the summit if you hauled the # 6 along or are comfortable soloing. otherwise keep scrambling right till you intersect the route that goes off the right side of the big ledge. Climb the final left leaning wide crack to the ridge crest and walk over to the summit block. The rap anchor might be in need of new webbing. plan accordingly.
P3-4 climb up the right side of the wide open bowl, being careful of the loose and exfoliating flakes. Aim for the obvious horn with tat around it above. You can go pretty much anywhere. I started up the center, got sketched by the looseness and traversed to the left, then climbed back right on decomposing thin shit with no gear. the right side looked more straightforward and thats the way the rap route goes. the top is really fun 5.8
At this point the route reaches a big ledge, giving you many options. The most straightforward route climbs off the far right side, after scrambling under a chockstone head up for 2 pitches of 5.8ish climbing to the summit. This is also the way the rap route goes.
However, if you have the time I recommend heading off to the left once you hit the ledge. (This may be part of the corkscrew route, someone else can chime in and tell me if I'm right or wrong)
P5 Aim for the clean handcrack in a flare which is about 5.fun, or scramble around it at low 5th to the left. gain the ridgetop and head out for some stellar exposed 5.7-8 face climbing complete with a original sketch 1/4in bolt put in 50 or so years ago. the climbing isn't hard, just wild and fun. belay at a slung block.
P6 Continue up the ridge, making fun moves up the sharp arete to a perfect handcrack. let out a few ecstatic yells and then get ready for the semi unpleasant part. downclimbing. there are 3 or 4 downclimbs, all can be easily followed by the 2nd if precautions are taken (don't be a dick and skip clipping tat or placing gear if you're leading) go as far as you can until rope drag becomes unbearable and belay. Wildly exposed 5.7 with annoying downclimbs.
P7 (or maybe 8 if you didn't go far enough you may have to do another short traversing pitch) There's a fun looking 5.10 offwidth that goes right to the summit if you hauled the # 6 along or are comfortable soloing. otherwise keep scrambling right till you intersect the route that goes off the right side of the big ledge. Climb the final left leaning wide crack to the ridge crest and walk over to the summit block. The rap anchor might be in need of new webbing. plan accordingly.
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