Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Burgundy Spire

North Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,945 total, 64/month
Shared By: Keenan Waeschle on Jul 31, 2011
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


36 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

P1-2 scramble up 4th with the occasional mid 5th move to the broad sandy ledge connecting with paisano pinnacle.

P3-4 climb up the right side of the wide open bowl, being careful of the loose and exfoliating flakes. Aim for the obvious horn with tat around it above. You can go pretty much anywhere. I started up the center, got sketched by the looseness and traversed to the left, then climbed back right on decomposing thin shit with no gear. the right side looked more straightforward and thats the way the rap route goes. the top is really fun 5.8

At this point the route reaches a big ledge, giving you many options. The most straightforward route climbs off the far right side, after scrambling under a chockstone head up for 2 pitches of 5.8ish climbing to the summit. This is also the way the rap route goes.

However, if you have the time I recommend heading off to the left once you hit the ledge. (This may be part of the corkscrew route, someone else can chime in and tell me if I'm right or wrong)
P5 Aim for the clean handcrack in a flare which is about 5.fun, or scramble around it at low 5th to the left. gain the ridgetop and head out for some stellar exposed 5.7-8 face climbing complete with a original sketch 1/4in bolt put in 50 or so years ago. the climbing isn't hard, just wild and fun. belay at a slung block.

P6 Continue up the ridge, making fun moves up the sharp arete to a perfect handcrack. let out a few ecstatic yells and then get ready for the semi unpleasant part. downclimbing. there are 3 or 4 downclimbs, all can be easily followed by the 2nd if precautions are taken (don't be a dick and skip clipping tat or placing gear if you're leading) go as far as you can until rope drag becomes unbearable and belay. Wildly exposed 5.7 with annoying downclimbs.

P7 (or maybe 8 if you didn't go far enough you may have to do another short traversing pitch) There's a fun looking 5.10 offwidth that goes right to the summit if you hauled the # 6 along or are comfortable soloing. otherwise keep scrambling right till you intersect the route that goes off the right side of the big ledge. Climb the final left leaning wide crack to the ridge crest and walk over to the summit block. The rap anchor might be in need of new webbing. plan accordingly.

Location

You can make it down with a 60 but you might have to do a little downclimbing in places. having a 70 was nice. lots of places to get the rope stuck, be careful when you pull.

Protection

single rack to 3 inches was adequate. bring an extra .75 and 1 if 5.8 is near your limit.
RodrigoB  
 
I climbed a different variation of the final pitch. Instead of tackling the thin (finger) crack leading off of the giant ledge to the off-width I climbed a lichen-covered dihedral following a 15' traverse to climbers left. It certainly goes, and was relatively enjoyable, but was enjoyable if one gets past the lichen. We easily wrapped the route with a 70 m rope and a 60 m wouldn't have changed things on the descent. A 70 m was nice, particular if linking Paisano and Burgundy. Jun 26, 2017
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
  5.8+
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
  5.8+
We rapped the route with one 60m rope without any problems. Not much slower than another party with two 60m ropes. Jul 27, 2016
Curt Veldhuisen
Bellingham, WA
 
Curt Veldhuisen   Bellingham, WA
 
Can approach by doing the West Face of Paisano Pinnacle. Adds a bunch of nice climbing and avoids the first two blocky pitches above Burgundy Col. Feb 14, 2014
Keith Leaman  
 
Bryan, I just added a photo of what I believe is the variation you mentioned. Does it look the same? Just above the end of the chimney was a steep off-width which Phil climbed & downclimbed unprotected. We also exited off to the right as you suggest. Highly recommend this flared chimney variation as well. Aug 5, 2013
Bryan G
Yosemite
Bryan G   Yosemite
The new Supertopo shows 3 variations on the last pitch. We took the left variation up a nice long chimney in a right-facing corner. This finish is great and I highly recommend it. However, directly above the chimney is a nice looking offwidth corner crack, and although it's clean and high quality, don't go up it unless you are prepared to downclimb. It tops out at a knife edge block with no rap anchor. You'll find a lonely 1/4" stud (no hanger or nut) on top. The proper finish to the summit is to the right, where you'll find two OW's just a few feet from each other. Jul 31, 2013
Rafe
  5.8
Rafe  
  5.8
Anyone ever done the direct route up the north face that puts you at a bolted belay beneath an open book'ish feature with a wide corner crack to the top with another bolted rappel station? Aug 12, 2011