Avg: 2.5 from 50 votes
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 850 ft, 12 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Fred Beckey and Donald Gordon, 1958|
|Page Views:||6,436 total · 89/month|
|Shared By:||Joe Manning on Aug 7, 2014|
|Admins:||Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
Pitched climbing generally starts at the steep section below the top of the leftmost gully. Pitch count and breakdown varies, but one obvious way to break down the route is as follows (note: the Supertopo guide shows this as quite a few more pitches, linking pitches as per below will make the easy sections of this route go much faster).
1: Up gully to ridge crest, left on ridge, belay at tree.
2: Up ridge crest, staying right of steep faces, then turn left up obvious ramp to huge ledge.
3: Either continue up the blocky crest, or traverse ledge left and go up the 4th-low 5th gully/ramp. Turn left at next large ridge and belay at tree.
4: Right and up through small notch, then climb up awkward slabby section to a small ledge system with big exposure to the right. Belay at base of chimney right before ledge ends at the SE face.
5: Climb chimney or face, which soon eases off to a sandy ramp/gully scramble under a huge chockstone. Crawl under chockstone, then boulder on top and belay on great ledge right above chockstone. This is a good feature to confirm you're on route.
6: 2nd hardest pitch. Traverse ledges right from belay, and climb cracks and flakes up. Lots of options here, including a squeeze chimney and some awesome crack and flake climbing. At the top of large flakes and blocks, traverse up and left to a belay tree, or belay on gear above the blocks.
7: Up and left from the belay, climb a couple fun short steps with laybacking and jamming to a belay stance in a small notch with trees below the crux pitch.
8: Crux pitch. Climb the ramp leading to the wide chimney/stembox feature (limited protection). Stem up, then step right to the face with great hand cracks. Climb up, then make an awkward move back left to top out into the sandy gully. Belay from tree.
(Carry rope up sandy gully between false summits to obvious notch)
9: Downclimb the "5.7+" boulder problem into the notch.
(Walk left down loose gully. Be careful not to knock rocks down, as parties coming from the West Ridge may be below you. A belay may be warranted).
10: Climb easy face to enter next gully (limited protection). Climb up and left to achieve summit ridge, climb short offwidth section).
11: Climb/scramble along ridge to summit.