Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft (182 m), 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Carla Firey, Jim McCarthy 1971
Page Views: 14,271 total · 143/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on Jul 28, 2013
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure at Newhalem Crags March 1st to mid-July Details


P1: Follow an obviously white streaked S-shaped crack up past a tree. Belay on the ledge a little off of the left of the ridge. 125ft 5.8

P2: Ramble up the ridge crest on easy blocks until you reach a big belay ledge next to a large boulder and the 5.7 crack of the next pitch. 200ft Easy 5th

P3: Climb the crack up to a ledge with a tree. Move to the right on the ledge, climb the cracks up to the next ledge and belay with a #1 and chalks at the base of the twin cracks. 180ft 5.7

P4: Climb the twin cracks up from this ledge into a dihedral; both take small cams well. Once above the dihedral, you'll see some horns; from here, leave the ridge and traverse out to climbers left to a ledge out on the face with a tree. Belay at this tree. 125ft 5.8

P5: Climb the easiest line up from the tree to regain the ridge (one or two layback moves are the crux). Once on the ridge ramble up the easy 4th to a good ledge with a splitter crack; belay here. 85ft 5.8

P6: Climb the 5.6 splitter crack up a step off the ledge on the ridge crest. Above this step, traverse around the right side of a gendarme. Continue climbing to a belay at a ledge beneath twin cracks on the left. Rope drag can be bad on this pitch; consider breaking the pitch up if you are having problems. 110ft 5.6

P7: Climb the bomber twin cracks straight up to a ledge. Belay here. 110ft 5.7

P8: Climb up a large widening crack. At the top of the crack, climb left on face holds. You may be able to find a placement for a small cam here or there, but don't count on it. Continue up the ridge crest to the top. 150ft 5.8

Descent: From the summit of Paisano, downclimb easy terrain until you're below the NF of Burgundy. You will see rap slings on horns. Do not climb up the sub-peak north of the NF (there may be tat there, but don't use these). Make one 30m rap down down to a ledge, downclimb to the next anchors, then make one more 20m rap down to the ground.


Set of nuts, cams .4-4"