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Routes in Paisano Pinnacle

Rampage T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
West Ridge T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 8 pitches, Grade III
FA: Carla Firey, Jim McCarthy 1971
Page Views: 8,042 total · 133/month
Shared By: Aaron Nash on Jul 28, 2013
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


47 Opinions

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Description

P1: Follow an obviously white streaked S-shaped crack up past a tree. Belay on the ledge a little off of the left of the ridge. 125ft 5.8

P2: Ramble up the ridge crest on easy blocks until you reach a big belay ledge next to a large boulder and the 5.7 crack of the next pitch. 200ft Easy 5th

P3: Climb the crack up to a ledge with a tree. Move to the right on the ledge, climb the cracks up to the next ledge and belay with a #1 and chalks at the base of the twin cracks. 180ft 5.7

P4: Climb the twin cracks up from this ledge into a dihedral; both take small cams well. Once above the dihedral, you'll see some horns; from here, leave the ridge and traverse out to climbers left to a ledge out on the face with a tree. Belay at this tree. 125ft 5.8

P5: Climb the easiest line up from the tree to regain the ridge (one or two layback moves are the crux). Once on the ridge ramble up the easy 4th to a good ledge with a splitter crack; belay here. 85ft 5.8

P6: Climb the 5.6 splitter crack up a step off the ledge on the ridge crest. Above this step, traverse around the right side of a gendarme. Continue climbing to a belay at a ledge beneath twin cracks on the left. Rope drag can be bad on this pitch; consider breaking the pitch up if you are having problems. 110ft 5.6

P7: Climb the bomber twin cracks straight up to a ledge. Belay here. 110ft 5.7

P8: Climb up a large widening crack. At the top of the crack, climb left on face holds. You may be able to find a placement for a small cam here or there, but don't count on it. Continue up the ridge crest to the top. 150ft 5.8

Descent: From the summit of Paisano, downclimb easy terrain until you're below the NF of Burgundy. You will see rap slings on horns. Do not climb up the sub-peak north of the NF (there may be tat there, but don't use these). Make one 30m rap down down to a ledge, downclimb to the next anchors, then make one more 20m rap down to the ground.

Protection

Set of nuts, cams .4-4"
Cat Cahoon
Seattle, WA
 
Cat Cahoon   Seattle, WA
 
This is a great route with lots of fun climbing. Highly recommended. It took us 3-3.5hrs to get to the base, and 3.5hrs from the top back to the car - which is probably a pretty average time. Jun 8, 2015
Nick Sweeney
Spokane, WA
  5.9
Nick Sweeney   Spokane, WA
  5.9
Very sustained, fun outing. We did it in 6 pitches, which felt about right. We were gunning for a link-up with Burgundy but got caught behind a slower party for the first couple of pitches, and were not fast enough once that party allowed us to pass. Bring a .2 X4 or equivalent for the last pitch... there is a bomber placement for it if you keep your eyes open. Jul 24, 2016
Max Leitner
Seattle, Washington
  5.9-
Max Leitner   Seattle, Washington
  5.9-
Do your research for the approach of this climb. I believe the picture from the 06-15-15 post is incorrect.
The chockstone is present, it is near the base of the route. We followed Steph Abegg's beta closely and had no problems.

stephabegg.com/home/triprep…

Two other teams wandered around, well off of the correct approach that morning. Jul 27, 2016
Kevin Driscoll
  5.9- PG13
Kevin Driscoll  
  5.9- PG13
We climbed the route on the June 20th encountering plenty of snow on the approach. Could have used an ice ax on the decent, 40 degree snow couloir about 400 ft, but managed with crampons and trekking poles. Excellent moderate cracks on several pitches, good protection, and large belay ledges. Thought the crux was actually a short section of pitch 4 above the twin splitters with a couple tricky moves into a right facing corner. Small Alien worked great to protect top run out on pitch 8. Jul 17, 2017

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