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Lesser-known FAs by Big Name Climbers?

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Klein VerHill · · Pittsburgh PA & northern India · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 3,147

When you think of climbing legends like Robbins, Chouinard, Bachar, Gill, Long, etc... putting up stellar first ascents, you usually think of iconic places like the Valley, Fitz, J-Tree and other such locations. Are there any relatively under-the-radar routes, lines, or problems put up by world famous climbers in some unlikely spots?

I can think of two routes put up by Chouinard in the northeast:

Chouinard's Gulley WI3 in the Daks.

Matinee 5.10d in the Gunks

(Lynn Hill's Lynn Hill Traverse V8- is also in the Gunks

I can also think of one put up by John Long in the RRG.

Hot September 5.9 at Long Wall

I think Beckey's Wall 5.7 in the Wasatch could be on that list too but I recognize it is pretty well known.

Any other climbs like this that you know of?

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,449

You do realize that Lynn Hill lived in the Gunks, and put up way more badass stuff than the traverse, right?

Also, to be helpful, Kor crack at Ragged

Klein VerHill · · Pittsburgh PA & northern India · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 3,147

@Bryce Adamson Didn't realize she lived there. Good to know though. Part of the reason for asking the question was to become more aware of stuff like this. Got any routes she put up that shouldn't be missed?

june m · · elmore, vt · Joined Jun 2011 · Points: 122

 in as much as Fritz Wiesner is my hero and he put up and he put up some totally badass climbs for his time there's quite a few of them that probably aren't worth repeating .as one example I probably won't bother to do the Wiesner chimney at Humphrey's again

Matt Thomsen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 263
Klein VerHill wrote:I can also think of one put up by John Long in the RRG.

Hot September 5.9 at Long Wall

I don’t think that is the same John Long, from Yosemite fame....

Doctor Drake · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2018 · Points: 126
Klein VerHill wrote:
Matinee 5.10d in the Gunks

I would argue that Matinee is one of the more famous 5.10s in the Gunks and is definitely a notable Chouinard ascent.

Warren Harding: Harding's Chimney (5.7 R) is a pretty cool climb at Sugarloaf. Not sure about how well know it is outside of Tahoe, flared chimneying awesomeness!

Royal Robbins: Something from later in his career, Fantasia (5.9 R) is a pretty bold line.

Dylan Colon · · Eugene, OR · Joined Jun 2009 · Points: 501

Ok, extra points if it's a super high quality climb that gets overlooked because it's not in a famous area. The Midwest is great for this kind of thing.

A few submissions

One of the best and most classic V4's in Minnesota, B2 Bomber in Interstate State Park, is actually a Jim Holloway problem. A gem plucked from under the noses of the locals.

Wiessner Face is one of the best 5.7's at Devils Lake, Wisconsin, maybe THE best.

There's also a bunch of classic John Gill lines at Devils Lake, and while it's hard to pick a standout, The Flatiron (V4) and Gill's Cheek (5.10c onsight free solo FA way back in 1962) stand out as historically significant in my mind.

Bryce Adamson · · Connecticut · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 1,449
Klein VerHill wrote: @Bryce Adamson Didn't realize she lived there. Good to know though. Part of the reason for asking the question was to become more aware of stuff like this. Got any routes she put up that shouldn't be missed?

She was on the FA team for Vandals which was the first 5.13 in the east after Supercrack got downgraded. She also put up Yellow Crack Direct at solid 5.12 X (onsight, I believe).

The Rock and Snow flashback blogs are always a good read: ​https://037200b.netsolhost.com/blog-page.php?Flashback-Lynn-Hill-s-Welcome-To-The-Gunks-17​​​

Stan Darsh · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 21

John Bachar- FFA D7 on The Diamond
Royal Robbins- FFA Grand Giraffe and Athlete's Feat in Boulder

All well known climbs but cool to see names like those pop up every once in a while in local guidebooks. Also, I'm sure there are countless others in the Front Range. 

Chris Owen · · Big Bear Lake · Joined Jan 2002 · Points: 11,990
This one

had Joe Brown along for the ride.

TravKlein · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 380

Yvon Chouinard on this Teton classic.. not sure it’s that much of an unknown but compared to some of the other routes hes put up it probably is.

The Snaz​​​

Nick Henscheid · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 626

In 1966, Fred Beckey traveled out to Cochise Stronghold with John Rupley (an old school local hard-dude).  They put up a single 5.9 A1 route on Vortex Dome, a relatively small feature surrounded by beautiful, tall, high-quality granite towers.  When Beckey kept asking about these other towers and the possibility of new routes, someone (not sure if it was Rupley or someone else) told him they had all been climbed.  Thus, Beckey never returned to put up more FAs, when in reality he could have had his pick of the litter!  

Sandymalone88 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2015 · Points: 350

"Hoosier Daddy" v6, FA John Sherman @ Muscatatuck Park in Indiana

Derek Field · · Nevada · Joined Jan 2016 · Points: 6,359
Nick Henscheid wrote: In 1966, Fred Beckey traveled out to Cochise Stronghold with John Rupley (an old school local hard-dude).  They put up a single 5.9 A1 route on Vortex Dome, a relatively small feature surrounded by beautiful, tall, high-quality granite towers.  When Beckey kept asking about these other towers and the possibility of new routes, someone (not sure if it was Rupley or someone else) told him they had all been climbed.  Thus, Beckey never returned to put up more FAs, when in reality he could have had his pick of the litter!  

Then in 1969, Fred Beckey traveled out to Sedona with Dan McHale and Joe Brown (old school hard-dudes). They put up a single 5.7 A2 route on Christianity Spire, a relatively tall feature surrounded by other beautiful, tall, low-quality sandstone towers. Beckey never returned to put up more FAs, when in reality he could have had his pick of the kitty litter!

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730

classic climbs put up by nobody’s might be more interesting. like everyone knows whitney gilman but did those guys ever do anything else? not as far as i know. 

Scoot Bank · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 873

John Long, Royal Robbins and Lynn Hill put up a bunch of high quality routes in a relatively obscure climbing area around Ophir, Colorado. 

Parachute Adams · · At the end of the line · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 0

Dean's Day Off put up by Henry Barber on Indy Pass. 

oldfattradguuy kk · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 172
Bryce Adamson wrote:

She was on the FA team for Vandals which was the first 5.13 in the east after Supercrack got downgraded. She also put up Yellow Crack Direct at solid 5.12 X (onsight, I believe).

The Rock and Snow flashback blogs are always a good read: https://037200b.netsolhost.com/blog-page.php?Flashback-Lynn-Hill-s-Welcome-To-The-Gunks-17

The photo on artificial intelligence might be from the time she and Russ got busted by some other locals who walked up and found her hanging while he went around to photograph from the top

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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