Lesser-known FAs by Big Name Climbers?
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When you think of climbing legends like Robbins, Chouinard, Bachar, Gill, Long, etc... putting up stellar first ascents, you usually think of iconic places like the Valley, Fitz, J-Tree and other such locations. Are there any relatively under-the-radar routes, lines, or problems put up by world famous climbers in some unlikely spots? I can think of two routes put up by Chouinard in the northeast: Chouinard's Gulley WI3 in the Daks. Matinee 5.10d in the Gunks (Lynn Hill's Lynn Hill Traverse V8- is also in the Gunks I can also think of one put up by John Long in the RRG. Hot September 5.9 at Long Wall I think Beckey's Wall 5.7 in the Wasatch could be on that list too but I recognize it is pretty well known. Any other climbs like this that you know of? |
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You do realize that Lynn Hill lived in the Gunks, and put up way more badass stuff than the traverse, right? |
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@Bryce Adamson Didn't realize she lived there. Good to know though. Part of the reason for asking the question was to become more aware of stuff like this. Got any routes she put up that shouldn't be missed? |
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in as much as Fritz Wiesner is my hero and he put up and he put up some totally badass climbs for his time there's quite a few of them that probably aren't worth repeating .as one example I probably won't bother to do the Wiesner chimney at Humphrey's again |
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Klein VerHill wrote:I can also think of one put up by John Long in the RRG. I don’t think that is the same John Long, from Yosemite fame.... |
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Klein VerHill wrote: I would argue that Matinee is one of the more famous 5.10s in the Gunks and is definitely a notable Chouinard ascent. Warren Harding: Harding's Chimney (5.7 R) is a pretty cool climb at Sugarloaf. Not sure about how well know it is outside of Tahoe, flared chimneying awesomeness! |
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Ok, extra points if it's a super high quality climb that gets overlooked because it's not in a famous area. The Midwest is great for this kind of thing. |
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Klein VerHill wrote: @Bryce Adamson Didn't realize she lived there. Good to know though. Part of the reason for asking the question was to become more aware of stuff like this. Got any routes she put up that shouldn't be missed? She was on the FA team for Vandals which was the first 5.13 in the east after Supercrack got downgraded. She also put up Yellow Crack Direct at solid 5.12 X (onsight, I believe). The Rock and Snow flashback blogs are always a good read: https://037200b.netsolhost.com/blog-page.php?Flashback-Lynn-Hill-s-Welcome-To-The-Gunks-17 |
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John Bachar- FFA D7 on The Diamond |
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This one
had Joe Brown along for the ride. |
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Yvon Chouinard on this Teton classic.. not sure it’s that much of an unknown but compared to some of the other routes hes put up it probably is. |
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In 1966, Fred Beckey traveled out to Cochise Stronghold with John Rupley (an old school local hard-dude). They put up a single 5.9 A1 route on Vortex Dome, a relatively small feature surrounded by beautiful, tall, high-quality granite towers. When Beckey kept asking about these other towers and the possibility of new routes, someone (not sure if it was Rupley or someone else) told him they had all been climbed. Thus, Beckey never returned to put up more FAs, when in reality he could have had his pick of the litter! |
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"Hoosier Daddy" v6, FA John Sherman @ Muscatatuck Park in Indiana |
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Nick Henscheid wrote: In 1966, Fred Beckey traveled out to Cochise Stronghold with John Rupley (an old school local hard-dude). They put up a single 5.9 A1 route on Vortex Dome, a relatively small feature surrounded by beautiful, tall, high-quality granite towers. When Beckey kept asking about these other towers and the possibility of new routes, someone (not sure if it was Rupley or someone else) told him they had all been climbed. Thus, Beckey never returned to put up more FAs, when in reality he could have had his pick of the litter! Then in 1969, Fred Beckey traveled out to Sedona with Dan McHale and Joe Brown (old school hard-dudes). They put up a single 5.7 A2 route on Christianity Spire, a relatively tall feature surrounded by other beautiful, tall, low-quality sandstone towers. Beckey never returned to put up more FAs, when in reality he could have had his pick of the kitty litter! |
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classic climbs put up by nobody’s might be more interesting. like everyone knows whitney gilman but did those guys ever do anything else? not as far as i know. |
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John Long, Royal Robbins and Lynn Hill put up a bunch of high quality routes in a relatively obscure climbing area around Ophir, Colorado. |
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Dean's Day Off put up by Henry Barber on Indy Pass. |
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Bryce Adamson wrote: The photo on artificial intelligence might be from the time she and Russ got busted by some other locals who walked up and found her hanging while he went around to photograph from the top |