Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: Fritz Wiessner?
Page Views: 8,396 total · 41/month
Shared By: James Schroeder on Feb 21, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge

You & This Route

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A Devil's Lake 10-star, mega-classic! Perched on the airy right-hand side of one of Devil's Lake's most impressive and imposing walls, Wiessner's Face starts on the right side of Wiessner's Ledge, and negotiates blocky terrain up and right to a good stance above the pine tree. From that stance, it links (at a moderate grade) edges and horizontal cracks up what appears from below to be a blank, improbable face. Each move up is an exercise in faith, but rest-assured, the holds will present themselves, and you will not, despite the nagging feeling, fall all the way to the lake waiting patiently, hundreds of feet below, if you fail in finding them.


A variety of pieces suffice for building an anchor on the Wiessner Ledge, but it is best to use up the big stuff in the anchor and save the smaller gear for the actual climbing above. The face itself can be well-protected with a double-set of TCUs.

The route can be well-protected, but the gear is quite specific, not always obvious, and at times, slightly dubious (as in, how do you really feel about the #00 TCU placed 1/2" deep in the horizontal crack, five feet below you?). Given this, it is an excellent stepping stone in the progression for the aspiring Devil's Lake leader with plans to someday test himself or herself on some of the park's more sparsely protected and challenging headpoints.

Location/Getting There

Wiessner's Face is located on the upper-right-half of the Wiessner Wall and starts from the far-right end of Wiessner's Ledge. The Wiessner Ledge is easily accessed, either by rappelling from above, or more classically as a second pitch, via the Wiessner Chimney.
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Could you imagine Fritz Wiessner climbing it in lug soled boots and having to pound pitons for pro. Fritz was THE MAN!!! Apr 26, 2002
I agree with Jay. I think we sometimes forget how cool those guys are. Climbing with hemp ropes and protection that wasn't really protection. In boots! In the snow! In the cold! They are all "the man"! May 1, 2002
Decent exposure on a steep thin face with pro in horizontal crack. Bring small (0.25-1.25) cams to protect the face. Apr 27, 2003
I think that this route (Wiessner face) is visible from the railroad amphitheater across the lake. Is it? I always liked this route just because it's one of the longer (higher)routes in the park. It's been a long time since I climbed, but I still remember it. I haven't been to DL for a few years. I used to go with my son Efrain "Bug" "moke"(passed away[non climbing]) and he and I really liked this route. Aug 25, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
This is THE BEST route at Devil's Lake. Nov 14, 2005
Absolutely awesome route. Good pro. May 4, 2007
Sean Glendon
Sean Glendon  
This is fantastic get on it! We topped this out today to find that the guys that went up just before us left us a few cold brews. Much thanks and I salute your style sir! Jun 3, 2018