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Featured Trad, Sport, Bouldering, and other popular climbing routes and climbing areas Bath, Maine.
The main wall has a two-bolt top rope anchor, and multiple lines of varying difficulty to the top. Some might argue that these are just highball bouldering problems. A large and chossy overhanging roof of granite flakes to the left of the main wall holds potential for climbing with careful assessment of rock safety and smart protection. Climbing the roof is not advisable. Shorter bouldering lines border the main wall and roof on the cliff edges, and several large boulders plucked from the main wall are nearby options as well. A crack system tucked to the left of the roof provides another opportunity for a top roping option with tree anchors, and is an excellent practice line for learning trad placements in a safe setting.Considerations:The rock is softer granite than found in most midcoast climbing areas. Your fingers may like it, but your rope still will not. When top roping, make sure to protect the rope across the lip at the top of the wall.Warm Ups - "Arete Boulder is just to the left of the main crag and has at least two V) +/- warm ups- see photo. Follow the Whiskeag trail North from Oak Grove Cemetery (Note the featured wall below the bridge over the railroad, another top roping possibility). Follow the main trail on the edge of Whiskeag pond past the powerlines until you see the crag on the right.
There are three areas here, "the Crag", "Boulderama", and "the Dump Cave". All three have some highball and lowball options, various established moderates, and some hard projects yet to be sent as far as anyone knows.The Powerline sub-area is a little off the beaten track and offers easy climbing for beginners. Considerations:The rock is softer granite than found in most midcoast climbing areas. Your fingers may like it, but your rope still will not. When top roping, make sure to protect the rope across the lip at the top of the wall. 20 minute walk from Bath Middle School fields parking. Follow the Whiskeag trail North from oak Grove Cemetery (Note the featured wall below the bridge over the railroad, another top roping possibility). Follow the main trail on the edge of Whiskeag pond past the powerlines until you see the crag on the right.
A west-facing gentle ledge of granite with quartz knobs. This is off the Whiskeag Trail, in a sunny strip of land cleared for power lines. An excellent place for kids or people who are just learning. A few options exist in the middle and there's a boulder off to the far left, sort of in the woods. A minute before the main crag is a cutout over a hill for power lines. You can see the ledge right off the trail, but if you go to the bench looking out at the creek, then directly behind you is the ledge. GPS is right around 43.929146, -69.834963.
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