Goat Rock Rock Climbing
Elevation: | 2,302 ft | 702 m |
GPS: |
36.48044, -121.20244 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 88 total · 15/month | |
Shared By: | Marco Conci on Apr 15, 2024 | |
Admins: | andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Current Raptor Advisories for Pinnacles National Park nps.gov/pinn/planyourvisit/…
and
pinnacles.org/climbing_info…
Closures effective as of the day after Martin Luther King Day- July 3. Check closure website for details on closed areas.
SPECIAL NOTICE: Condors have been establishing nests at the Pinnacles National Monument. Since condors develop to fledgling more slowly than raptors and vultures closures due to condor nesting is extended past the usual Martin Luther King Day to July 3rd. Again, please check the "Current Raptor Advisory" section of the NPS website and/or the Friends of Pinnacles website for current closures.
As of July 2024 there are three active Condor nests at Pinnacles National Park.
The Machete Ridge area is closed from Pigeon Crack on west face then west around the south side to The Hideout including the popular Old Original.
All climbing routes at Crowley Towers are closed.
All routes on the Yaks and Yaks Wall plus Marauder.
Description
***CLOSED Jan15-July 1*** due to raptor nesting
Very fun area almost at the top of the high peaks far south. Contains climbs from 5.3 to 5.10b. Some routes climb streaks up to 180 feet in length and as a single pitch. This alone makes climbing here potentially some of the best in pinnacles, depending on what you are looking for. This area does not get much traffic so not all the holds are to be trusted completely, but the rock is still quite good for pinnacles and will cleanup with more ascents. Anyone familiar with Pinnacles rock will have a great time.
Climbing here ranges from long thin steak climbing to deep chimneys.
Walk off for all routes. 2 ropes would be required for TRing some of the longer routes, which would be a pain in the butt to carry up to Goat Rock.
History:
Dave Haller, Dave Crough, and Chuck Richards started developing the area in 1973.
Nexus first ascensionists Jack Holmgren and Malintha Winwood also worked on routes in the area in 1986.
Recently there has been more development from 2016-2019 resulting in about 5 fun routes with modern hardware.
Getting There
Just West/downhill from Punctuation Pinnacle, uphill and NW from the shaft. Almost all climbs are on the East face of Goat Rock.
Head south of Satyr Pinnacle and around its west side to access : The Hedonist, For Goats' Sake, and Sheep Sheer. These routes are along a corridor between Satyr Pinnacle and Goat rock.
The rest of the routes are accessed by cutting NW downhill towards the NE end of Goat Rock, except: Return of Piece of Ewe. To access these routes start cutting downhill just before reaching Satyr Pinnacle.
Overall expect approaches to take about 45 minutes. I prefer the approach from the West side over the East side but I have heard they take similar times.
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