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Routes in 4. Main Slab

A Bit Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dharma Initiative, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eko Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost in the Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Past Dead Ending's. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rookie Ridge (incomplete) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
keystoned T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Elevation: 2,121 ft
GPS: 44.189, -71.394 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 4,431 total, 164/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

Description

The "Main Slab" is the slab at the end of the watercourse/gully intercepted by the normal approach path. This is the most frequently climbed slab.

It's a "wide open" slab, both geographically and "geopolitically"...in other words FA's (especially rambling solo FA's) often went unreported, no one seems to care. (Bradley White of Plymouth NH seems to have done a lot in the 1980's)

New lines follow old lines. It's a fine area to "mix and match" pitches from one route with another route. In short, a fine "playground" for the slab climber happy with 5.4 to 5.8.

Getting There

Take route 302 West from Bartlett. Park at a pull-out on the right (across from the pull-out for Willie's Slide winter ice climb) about 1/2 - 3/4 mile beyond the Willy House. The usual approach from the pull out is to walk back towards Willy House on the road about 0.1 -0.2 Mi (I recently counted 130 guard-rail posts from the parking pull-out.) Just beyond the large-diameter, "singleton" birch, look for a cairn on the road-side (about 15 ft "down slope") with a bit of flagging tape on a small pine. Cross the Saco here [Alt] (bring water-crossing shoes if at all high), then walk straight upslope and pick up a climber's path (orange flagging) that leads south to the big watercourse/gully. Follow this steeply uphill (with some boulders) to the base of the slab and start of the climb "Lost in the Sun". About 45-60 Min.
[Alternatively one can cross the Saco right at the parking pull out. You'll then have to walk down-river in the woods to pick up the trail. This may involve some crossing of the stream's braids.]

If the Saco is too deep to comfortably wade across, go back and take a look at the slab...it's probably too wet to enjoyably climb!

A COMMENT has been posted to the effect that one can hike by parking at the Willey House, walking west ("up-notch" toward Mt Willard) to mile-marker 45.6 (on left side of road), going 2 more "white markers" (on right side of road) and heading down and across the river, and straight up the slope on the other side. I think this is a bit further of a walk on the road.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Lost in the Sun
Trad 7 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
The Dharma Initiative
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lost in the Sun 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 7 pitches
Direct 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 7 pitches
The Dharma Initiative 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Main Slab »

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Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Bradley,
Thanks for the clarifications. I'll put 'em in. What about "Bore Tide", can you confirm it is on the slab I call "Left Slab"? ...(about 600 yds L of "Lost in the Sun slab"...and about where on that slab?
(I'd correspond directly, but my e-mail server seems to not want to "work" with MtProject.)
Bob Hall Sep 27, 2015
bradley white   Bend
Key Stoned is 'Lost in the Sun' although I didn't climb exactly where the bolts were placed. The climb then went up right in the woods up to the head wall right out of the woods.
Rookie Ridge is the longest slab right side of slab and ascends nearby the cascade. Then ascends the longest buttress hundreds of feet right from the top of the slab. Sep 26, 2015

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