Elevation: 2,121 ft
GPS: 44.189, -71.394 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 12,865 total · 185/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 23, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, Lee Hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

The "Main Slab" is the slab at the end of the watercourse/gully intercepted by the normal approach path. This is the most frequently climbed slab.

It's a "wide open" slab, both geographically and "geopolitically"...in other words FA's (especially rambling solo FA's) often went unreported, no one seems to care. (Bradley White of Plymouth NH seems to have done a lot in the 1980's)

New lines follow old lines. It's a fine area to "mix and match" pitches from one route with another route. In short, a fine "playground" for the slab climber happy with 5.4 to 5.8.

Getting There

Take route 302 West from Bartlett. Park at a pull-out on the right (across from the pull-out for Willie's Slide winter ice climb) about 1/2 - 3/4 mile beyond the Willy House. The usual approach from the pull out is to walk back towards Willy House on the road about 0.1 -0.2 Mi (I recently counted 130 guard-rail posts from the parking pull-out.) Just beyond the large-diameter birch, look for a cairn on the road-side (about 15 ft "down slope").  Cross the Saco here (bring water-crossing shoes if at all high), then walk left (upstream) on a sandy bar for 40-50 +/- ft ( crossing a small stream) Look for a 12" diameter, downed silver birch tree (maybe with a cairn on it) to pick up the climber's path [Photo] (orange flagging, cairns) that leads south (i.e. up and to the right) to the big watercourse/gully. Follow this steeply uphill (at a blowdown look for the path on the right that goes around the blowdown and then comes back into the gully) to the base of the slab and start of the climb "Lost in the Sun". About 45-60 Min. When ascending, "memorize" where the path leaves the gully to return to your car. It's cairned, but not THAT obvious.

If the Saco is too deep to comfortably wade across, go back and take a look at the slab...it's probably too wet to enjoyably climb! 

A COMMENT has been posted to the effect that one can hike by parking at the Willey House, walking west ("up-notch" toward Mt Willard) to mile-marker 45.6 (on left side of road), going 2 more "white markers" (on right side of road) and heading down and across the river, and straight up the slope on the other side. I think this is a bit further of a walk on the road.

8 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Main Slab

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 28
Lost in the Sun
Trad 7 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 10
Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 8
A Bit Too Short
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
The Dharma Initiative
Trad 7 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Lost in the Sun
 28
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 7 pitches
Direct
 10
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 7 pitches
A Bit Too Short
 8
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
The Dharma Initiative
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Main Slab »

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