Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 4. Main Slab

A Bit Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dharma Initiative, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eko Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost in the Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Past Dead Ending's. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rookie Ridge (incomplete) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
keystoned T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Type: Trad, 600 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Woodmen, Dorsey, 2007
Page Views: 8,595 total, 84/month
Shared By: bradley white on Jul 2, 2009
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Friction slabs and arch corner cracks to bolted belay anchors. 7 pitches go up adjacent to the long tree gully up the slabs. Good photos on the internet from images, (green chasm n.h.) of climbing on Mt. Webster and the central slabs. The photo's from Lost in the Sun, head wall, I don't know where they are.

Admin.'s NOTE: Bradley White soloed the approximate route of Lost in the Sun and named it "Key Stoned". He has chosen to keep the more common name "Lost in the Sun" for the route. His route description is that given above. For those looking for a bit of route finding adventure STOP HERE, others may appreciate the description below, from Ben Townsend:

Start: where the drainage gully meets the slab, there are three obvious features -- a wide vertical dike of black volcanic rock on the left, an open left-facing corner with a blank-looking left wall, and an alcove on the right at the base of a reddish vein or weakness that goes up into a short, darkish left-facing corner. This alcove is where you want to start.

P1: Up the short left-facing corner, then diagonal up left across a slab to corners, ledges, and an anchor. 115' (we rapped this pitch with a single 70m rope). The neclimbs description says there's a bolt on this pitch, but we saw no sign of one.

P2: You'll notice another anchor about 40' up and right -- ignore it, it's the P1 belay of "Direct". Instead, start up low-angled corners, then follow a slab* past three bolts to an easy headwall with cracks and a big ledge with two sets of anchors. (The third bolt is oddly located, requiring a stop right in the middle of the crux friction, despite a good stance just down to the right.) *The slab seems to hold its wetness. If so, it's easy to move a bit right and climb to the same ledge via "Direct".
The left set of anchors has one hanger sheared off by rockfall, though gear placements allow for backing up the other; the right set of anchors (of "Direct") has stainless bolts, but rusty plated ring-anchor hangers. A few minutes with a wrench and two stainless ring-anchors would remedy this issue, and if I get back up there this fall, I'll try to remember to do that. (Admin. NOTE: On the left, in addition to the broken bolt hanger, the bolt itself appears is bent. I was unable to remove the nut with a wrench. R. Hall 10-8-15)

P3: Up the obvious right-facing corner to a slab with three bolts (two visible from below); trend up right to an anchor.

P4: Easy slab to a ledge, then easy left-facing corners to a big ledge and anchor.
(NOTE: From this belay an easy "groove" leads up and right to the belay on "Direct" just below the fabulous "white slab" pitch. (P6 of "Direct") If the upper pitches of "Lost" are wet, this is a good alternative.

P5: Up an easy water-streak groove with poor rock, the traverse left below a headwall, cross a gully, and diagonal up left on flakes and cracks to the obvious Snake Flake. Up to its top, then move right to the anchor. Lots of rope drag possible if you don't use long runners wisely.

P6: Friction slab past two bolts (a bit heady off the belay to the first bolt, though the climbing is easy), some thoughtful gear placements in pockets or flakes on the slab, two more bolts (the third is hard to see until you're very close), then up to a horizontal and anchor.

P7: Up a white streak on very low-angle slab past one bolt to a ledge, clip a second bolt, then a short dark slab past an overlap to the anchors. 105' (maybe possible to rap with a 60m rope; a single 70m is certainly plenty).

All belays are two ring hangers except as noted. (Though some have mismatched single-ring and double-ring hangers; a perfectionist might do some rearranging.) Light rack to #3 Camalot.

Location

See "Getting There" for the "Main Slab".

Once at the base, Lost in the Sun starts just left of the "toe".

Protection

fixed bolts and a light trad. rack with medium cams. Rappel with two 60 meter ropes.
drewdogg2112
halifax, MA
drewdogg2112   halifax, MA
So me and my buddy Steve just climbed this yesterday and turned it into an all day epic.
Not sure if anyone has ever done this before or if this is an FA but we finished the "Lost in the sun" pitches and decided to keep climbing till we topped out on Mt Webster (see: forgot to bring 2 60 meter ropes so were unable to repel there for had to continue climbing up).
17 pitches total including the Lost in the Sun pitches and some simul-climbing

It was tons of really shift bushwhacking through terrible scrub interspersed with some gross, choosy, super dirty 5.5-5.8 trad/ alpine climbing.
mostly not too tough but 1 definite sketch, dirty as fuck 5.8 pitch with hard protection and a long runout.
We climbed the last 2 pitches in the dark with no headlamp (I had a headlamp in the gear bag but we just never took it out)
Pitch 13 and 14 were gross choss fest so find good belay cover because you will get rained on with shit, pitch 16 is the most god awful bushwhack you can possibly imagine esp if you are carrying the gear bag (Im naming pitch 16 "Scrub-a-dub-dub pitch), and pitch 17 is another shitty chossy/ mossy fest that could prob be simul-climbed but in the dark with no torch we just set up belay and climbed.

started Lost in the Sun at about 10am. Topped out Lost in the Sun's ;sat pitch at around 3 or 3:30pm. topped out on the Webster Cliff Trail at 8:30pm to a beautiful moon rising over the summit of Willie.
2.5 mile hike out the webster cliff trail and then another 2 mile road walk back to the car.

We are naming this top to bottom ascent starting at the base of Lost in the Sun "All in a days Work"

I dont recommend it cuz its a shit fest... but if your interested in an adventure and a lot of shitty bushwhacking give it a go. Sep 5, 2016
beach
Portland, ME
 
beach   Portland, ME
 
Hiked up to this climb yesterday and there was a waterfall coming down the first couple pitches. However, here is some approach beta: Park in front of the pond/marsh and walk down the road towards the slabs until you reach mile marker 45.6 (small green sign). Walk two tenths of a mile (two small white mile markers) further then cut down and cross the saco then hike straight uphill until you start seeing cairns that will lead you to the base of the talus.
[Admin. NOTE: The small white markers are not 0.1Mi apart, more like about 0.03 or 0.04, but it's presumed that TWO is the correct number!] May 16, 2015
USBRIT Ross
Keswick Cumbria.UK
USBRIT Ross   Keswick Cumbria.UK
Did a route somewhere up the center of these slabs in the late 70's. What I remember not many belays if any.At the time felt not worth recording as much better crags were still unclimbed Oct 19, 2013
bradley white
Bend
 
bradley white   Bend
 
Hi Travis I believe the climb was 'A Bit Short'. Jun 24, 2013
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
 
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
 
Does anyone know the route directly right of this climb? May 19, 2013
Travis Dustin
Hollis, NH
 
Travis Dustin   Hollis, NH
 
Tough approach! IMO parking at the little pull off almost directly across the road from the slabs and crossing the river to the "trail" and rockslide is the best way to go. May 19, 2013
Just Jesse
Methuen, MA
Just Jesse   Methuen, MA
The approach to this (from the road or pullout)is godawful if you travel via the woods, which are thick, steep and full of loose rock. Do yourself a favor and Park near where the RR track crosses 302 and walk the tracks for a 1/4 mile in. Don't know the legality of this, but it'll save you a heinous trudge in/out. Unless you are into that sort of adventure... Sep 10, 2012
Awesome adventure climb. Be careful though, the second bolt on pitch #2 is loose and unstable because the nut came off!!!!!!!!!!!! Aug 1, 2011
Mike Thompson
Manchester NH
Mike Thompson   Manchester NH
this looks sick dave! i wanna get on it some day :) Aug 10, 2009