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Routes in 4. Main Slab

A Bit Too Short T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dharma Initiative, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Direct T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Eko Slab T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Lost in the Sun T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Past Dead Ending's. T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rookie Ridge (incomplete) T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
keystoned T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
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Type: Trad, 1000 ft, 6 pitches, Grade III
FA: unknown
Page Views: 441 total · 14/month
Shared By: Robert Hall on Sep 28, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

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Description [Edit]

A Bit Too Short (5.6 / 5.7) climbs the slab between "Direct" and "Dharma Initiative". It STARTs about 100 ft up-gully of Direct. (See Topo/Photo posted to "Main Slab")

Protection [Edit]

usual rack
Ron Birk
Boston, MA
Ron Birk   Boston, MA
FA: July 2007 - Chuck Woodman & Jack Dorsey

Location: From base of the cliff, scramble up and right to a small ledge (~75’). Leave you bag, shoes etc at the base as it’s easier to rappel back down to the base. The route starts under a bolt in the dark rock.

P1: Climb dark rock passing four bolts to anchor, located just above the small tree ledge. Just left of the arête/buttress after the first bolt you can find a small crack to place a small cam. Otherwise the distance to the second bolt is little far. The second half is steeper slab with some thin features and has some rotten rock here and there. The rest of the route is good quality though. 5.6 190’

P2: Easier slab to anchor, passing two bolts. 5.3 160’

P3: Pass a bush to a steeper section with a vertical crack. Then less steep slab to anchor passing a couple of bolts. 5.5 150’

P4: More easy slab passing an overlap to anchor. 5.2 120’

P5: Climb steep left facing corner / flake passing a pin. Continue on slab passing a bolt to anchor just before bigger overlap. 5.4 170’

P6: Mantle the overlap and easier slab, passing a bolt, to a single bolt anchor. 5.4 ~180’

P7: Go up and traverse left over the weakness and up the slab to final anchor at a nice ledge (shared with Direct). 5.3 ~150’

Protection: Mostly bolted with occasional gear placement. Bring draws and a light rack. Aug 14, 2016

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