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4. Main Slab

New Hampshire > WM: Crawford Notch > Webster Slabs

Description

The "Main Slab" is the slab at the end of the watercourse/gully intercepted by the normal approach path. This is the most frequently climbed slab.

It's a "wide open" slab, both geographically and "geopolitically"...in other words FA's (especially rambling solo FA's) often went unreported, no one seems to care. (Bradley White of Plymouth NH seems to have done a lot in the 1980's)

New lines follow old lines. It's a fine area to "mix and match" pitches from one route with another route. In short, a fine "playground" for the slab climber happy with 5.4 to 5.8.

Getting There

Take route 302 West from Bartlett. Park at a pull-out on the right (across from the pull-out for Willie's Slide winter ice climb) about 1/2 - 3/4 mile beyond the Willy House. The usual approach from the pull out is to walk back towards Willy House on the road about 0.1 -0.2 Mi (I recently counted 130 guard-rail posts from the parking pull-out.) Just beyond the large-diameter birch, look for a cairn on the road-side (about 15 ft "down slope").  Cross the Saco here (bring water-crossing shoes if at all high), then walk left (upstream) on a sandy bar for 40-50 +/- ft ( crossing a small stream) Look for a 12" diameter, downed silver birch tree (maybe with a cairn on it) to pick up the climber's path [Photo] (orange flagging, cairns) that leads south (i.e. up and to the right) to the big watercourse/gully. Follow this steeply uphill (at a blowdown look for the path on the right that goes around the blowdown and then comes back into the gully) to the base of the slab and start of the climb "Lost in the Sun". About 45-60 Min. When ascending, "memorize" where the path leaves the gully to return to your car. It's cairned, but not THAT obvious.

If the Saco is too deep to comfortably wade across, go back and take a look at the slab...it's probably too wet to enjoyably climb! 

A COMMENT has been posted to the effect that one can hike by parking at the Willey House, walking west ("up-notch" toward Mt Willard) to mile-marker 45.6 (on left side of road), going 2 more "white markers" (on right side of road) and heading down and across the river, and straight up the slope on the other side. I think this is a bit further of a walk on the road.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Eko Slab
Trad 7 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 40
Lost in the Sun
Trad 7 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
 1
keystoned
Trad 6 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 18
Direct
Trad 7 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 10
A Bit Too Short
Trad 6 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
The Dharma Initiative
Trad 7 pitches
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 1
Past Dead Ending's.
Trad
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13
 2
Rookie Ridge (incomplete)
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Eko Slab
 1
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 7 pitches
Lost in the Sun
 40
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 7 pitches
keystoned
 1
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X Trad 6 pitches
Direct
 18
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 7 pitches
A Bit Too Short
 10
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 6 pitches
The Dharma Initiative
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 7 pitches
Past Dead Ending's.
 1
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Rookie Ridge (incomplete)
 2
5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13 Trad 4 pitches

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View across the river at the tree mentioned in the text.
[Hide Photo] View across the river at the tree mentioned in the text.
Webster Main Slab Topo (Kurt Winkler, I got it from Brad White) Direct now climbs straight up to a single bolt anchor at the top.
[Hide Photo] Webster Main Slab Topo (Kurt Winkler, I got it from Brad White) Direct now climbs straight up to a single bolt anchor at the top.
"Main Slab", "EKO-Slab" is the short, clean, white slab directly below the text that reads "Climbers near the top...."
[Hide Photo] "Main Slab", "EKO-Slab" is the short, clean, white slab directly below the text that reads "Climbers near the top...."
Right at Willie's Slide parking, there is now (Sep 2021) a "natural bridge" over the Saco!
[Hide Photo] Right at Willie's Slide parking, there is now (Sep 2021) a "natural bridge" over the Saco!
Wet and wild time climbing Mt Webster "the hard way"
<br>
today!
[Hide Photo] Wet and wild time climbing Mt Webster "the hard way" today!
We walked from Willie's Slide parking to mile marker 45.6. Directly from here, crossing the Saco and straight up. You find yourself in the gully very soon. It was quick and easy.
[Hide Photo] We walked from Willie's Slide parking to mile marker 45.6. Directly from here, crossing the Saco and straight up. You find yourself in the gully very soon. It was quick and easy.
View of slab thru the birch tree at the river crossing
[Hide Photo] View of slab thru the birch tree at the river crossing
Finally....the slab comes in view !
[Hide Photo] Finally....the slab comes in view !
The Base is "up there" ...about level with the top of Willie's Slide
[Hide Photo] The Base is "up there" ...about level with the top of Willie's Slide

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Key Stoned is 'Lost in the Sun' although I didn't climb exactly where the bolts were placed. The climb then went up right in the woods up to the head wall right out of the woods.
Rookie Ridge is the longest slab right side of slab and ascends nearby the cascade. Then ascends the longest buttress hundreds of feet right from the top of the slab. Sep 26, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] Bradley,
Thanks for the clarifications. I'll put 'em in. What about "Bore Tide", can you confirm it is on the slab I call "Left Slab"? ...(about 600 yds L of "Lost in the Sun slab"...and about where on that slab?
(I'd correspond directly, but my e-mail server seems to not want to "work" with MtProject.)
Bob Hall Sep 27, 2015