All Locations > New Hampshire > NH Ice & Mixed > - Crawford Notc… > 7. Mt Willard (Ice)

Main Face (aka South Face - Lower) Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in 02. Main Face (aka South Face - Lower)

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cinema Gully WI2
	Coin de la Souris WI3+
	Freeze Frame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A0
	Great Madness WI5
	Gully 1 WI4
	Gully 1-1/2 WI4+
	Gully 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
	Gully 2-1/2 WI3
	Rikki Tikki Tavi T WI5 R

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Elevation:	1,944 ft	593 m
GPS:	44.20216, -71.40932 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	23,847 total · 204/month
Shared By:	Kurtz on Jan 31, 2015
Admins:	Jay Knower, M Sprague, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan S, Robert Hall Page Updates (admin only)

See Weather Forecast

Access Issue: Avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Details

The Conway Scenic Railroad will be active in Crawford Notch this winter. It is critically important for climbers to avoid walking on the train tracks whenever possible. Please do not leave packs, gear, or ropes on or near the rails, and avoid belaying near the tracks. Be prepared for trains to pass at any time, all winter.

The right of way for the railroad extends 50 feet on either side of the tracks, so while walking next to the tracks is likely safer, from the point of view of the railway it does not necessarily provide a solution. Ideally climbers should avoid being near the tracks whenever possible. We're requesting that climbers use alternative approach trails when it makes sense, such as in the case of the Frankenstein Cliff trail. If you do need to use the tracks, we want people to be aware of the situation, and to try not to spend excess time on them.

Description

The lower tier of Mt. Willard's south face contains climbs from WI2 to WI5. ( Name changed to “Main Face” to correspond to the rock climbing nomenclature. R Hall NH Admin 1/7/21)

Getting There

From the parking lot at the top of the Notch, walk the RR tracks south. After the tracks turn to the right/west, the first big open area on the right is Cinema Gully. The next, narrower open area is the approach to Great Madness and the numbered gullies (about 1 mile from the parking lot).

Winter Trains??? On Dec 17th, 2018 around noon I saw a single engine plowing the tracks through the "cut" at the top of the notch. (By Elephant Head) and can only assume the engine cleared the whole way from Bartlett through the notch. Later in the winter of 2018-19 the tracks became totally filled in. Whether The Conway Scenic Railroad ("CSR") might run winter (Christmas???) trains in years of low snowfall is not known. Act accordingly. R Hall NH Admin.