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Routes in South Face - Lower

Cinema Gully WI2
Coin de la Souris WI3+
Freeze Frame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A0
Great Madness WI5
Gully 1 WI4
Gully 1-1/2 WI4+
Gully 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
Gully 2-1/2 WI3
Rikki Tikki Tavi T WI5 R
Type: Ice, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Todd Swain, Dick Peterson & Brad White December 7, 1980
Page Views: 267 total, 11/month
Shared By: Gunkswest on Nov 9, 2015
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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This route lies between Gullies #2 & 3.

P1: Climb up to near the base of Gully #3 (Great Madness), then go up and left on easy ice to a belay at a rock wall on the left side.
P2: Go left and up through a notch to easier ice and the top.


This route lies between Gullies #2 & 3.


Carry ice and rock gear.


- No Photos -
Ben Townsend  
The first pitch belay has a fixed knifeblade; you can back it with a pink Tricam, a good #1 Camalot, and possibly some thin cams (mine were resting helpfully in the pack). No fixed rap at the top, but the Great Madness rap tree is only about 100' right (and a bit down). Dec 26, 2016