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Routes in South Face - Lower

Cinema Gully WI2
Coin de la Souris WI3+
Freeze Frame T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3 A0
Great Madness WI5
Gully 1 WI4
Gully 1-1/2 WI4+
Gully 2 T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b WI3
Gully 2-1/2 WI3
Rikki Tikki Tavi T WI5 R
Type: Ice, 150 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,094 total, 42/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Jan 4, 2010
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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Description

A beautiful classic ice climb. Climb gradually steepening ice for about 100' till the vertical headwall section. This can be done on the left at 4 or head on at 4+. Use a 60 rope(s) and belay back at the trees.

Location

Walk the tracks until directly under Great Madness. Trudge up hill until you reach the cliff. Turn left and walk along the cliff passing gully #2 and a long rock wall. A massive, steep ice flow will appear uphill on your right.

Protection

Screws
Kurtz
 
Kurtz  
 
There is a low-angle ramp (WI 1-2) just to the left that can be used to ascend/descend/bypass.

We found it safer to belay on the right side. Ice falling from the top tends to ricochet unpredictably to the left. Jan 28, 2015
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Nice climb. Matt Ridder took me up it about a month ago. We were wondering about the direct start which we rapped off after. Feb 4, 2012
nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
 
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
 
There is a THIN direct start on the slab beneath the climb that is 3/3+x and a variation that I haven't done that looks great. Variation being Gully #1.5, there is a distinctive 'V' notch on the right at 2/3rds height. Some ice, some snow, some rock will get you to the top, I don't know the grade of this one. Jan 4, 2010