Type: Ice, 150 ft
FA: John Bragg, AJ LaFluer and Peter Cole in the winter of 1974
Page Views: 4,920 total · 43/month
Shared By: nhclimber on Jan 4, 2010 with improvements by Peter Cole
Admins: J Beta, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

A beautiful classic ice climb. Climb gradually steepening ice for about 100' till the vertical headwall section. This can be done on the left at 4 or head on at 4+. Use a 60 rope(s) and belay back at the trees.

Location

Walk the tracks until directly under Great Madness. Trudge up hill until you reach the cliff. Turn left and walk along the cliff passing gully #2 and a long rock wall. A massive, steep ice flow will appear uphill on your right.

Protection

Screws

Photos

nhclimber
Newmarket, NH
  WI4
nhclimber   Newmarket, NH
  WI4
There is a THIN direct start on the slab beneath the climb that is 3/3+x and a variation that I haven't done that looks great. Variation being Gully #1.5, there is a distinctive 'V' notch on the right at 2/3rds height. Some ice, some snow, some rock will get you to the top, I don't know the grade of this one. Jan 4, 2010
Ryan Barber
Rumney, NH
Ryan Barber   Rumney, NH
Nice climb. Matt Ridder took me up it about a month ago. We were wondering about the direct start which we rapped off after. Feb 4, 2012
Kurtz
Fort Collins, CO
 
Kurtz   Fort Collins, CO
 
There is a low-angle ramp (WI 1-2) just to the left that can be used to ascend/descend/bypass.

We found it safer to belay on the right side. Ice falling from the top tends to ricochet unpredictably to the left. Jan 28, 2015