Avg: 3.1 from 36 votes
|Type:||Ice, 600 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III|
|Page Views:||6,242 total, 53/month|
|Shared By:||ESG Greene on Mar 27, 2008|
|Admins:||Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall|
DescriptionThis is a great climb that ascends the slabby and beautiful South face of Mt. Willard that you can't miss as you drive North through Crawford Notch on US302. It is a classic climb and lives up to it's hype, although it can often be busy on weekends. There are several bulges on a moderate angle slab with the longest at the top. There are 2 main exits form this climb. To the left it stays at a sustained Grade 2 and to the right it is usually closer to Grade 3.
The climb can possibly be done in 3 long 60m pitches. Belays can be made in several ice bulges and unless things line up perfectly another pitch will be necessary. So, keep this in mind, especially if you are doing the right hand exit.
The easiest and recommended way back to the tracks after the climb is to follow the tree ledge to the right, until you come to an exposed ice slab (the base of the "Upper Slabs", 3 / 3+) at which point you can lead across this (a few yards of Grade 2 to 3, depending on conditions) for 40-50 ft to where snow usually resumes. Move a bit further right and look for a large (oak,maple?) tree below. [At this point you are well right (100 +/- feet) of the slabs, and should be directly below "Upper Hitchcock Gulley" 3 to 3+. The large tree is the top anchor for Lower Hitchcock Gully. Rappel into and down Hitchcock Gully. [Be sure no one is leading UP the gully, 5.4 - 5.6 rock, without a lot of pro.] A single 70m get you over most of the difficulties, but some may prefer doubled 60m's. Use your judgement to decide whether to downclimb or rap. Take care always, but especially if you are first down after a snowfall as may be short ice steps hidden under the snow.
Some people continue up a climb on the upper part of Mt. Willard and follow the descent directions from there. It is, however, a significant trek to the summit.