The Creamery Bouldering
Routes in The Creamery
|Buckets Forever V1-2 5|
|Cookies and Crimps V4- 6B|
|Fast and the Flurrious, The V7 7A+|
|First Come First Served V10 7C+ PG13|
|Frigidaire V6-7 7A+|
|General Electric V5 6C|
|General Steampunk V6 7A|
|Icebox Slab V0 4|
|Lactose Tolerant V3-4 6A+|
|Pop, Lock, and Drop V6 7A|
|Silent Observer V11 8A|
|State of the Art V12 8A+|
|Stick Boy's Festive Season V10 7C+|
|Sucker Punch V5 6C|
|Sunset Delight V2 5+|
|Tap and Sickle V3 6A|
|Whiskey and Success V9 7C|
|GPS:||34.46, -119.69 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||8,649 total, 175/month|
|Shared By:||andy patterson on Nov 17, 2013|
|Admins:||andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThe Creamery has been climbed over the decades by at least a small handful of intrepid locals, but no substantial development occurred till the Summer of 2013. I had been eyeing the boulders below the old Monastery (burned in the Tea Fire) for years, and after taking a long, hard look at the vegetated hillside, I finally mustered the gumption to explore. Paydirt!
This place isn't as large as the Brickyard, but the rock is generally better, or, in some cases MUCH better. The climbing varies dramatically from low-ball butt-draggers to tall, proud, technical faces. Grades range from V0 to V12(and up), with a pretty good dispersion of difficulty. There's something for everyone here.
After talking to some other locals (namely Kelly Lindsay), I found out that this secret paradise was referred to by some as The Scorpion Boulders. In the interest of clarity, and with respect to the psyche of the dedicated crew that helped me develop this area, the boulderfield was dubbed The Creamery, and many of the problems vaunt ice-cream, freezer-appliance, dessert, or confectionary titles. Why? Because at the time we started climbing there, I had just finished doing all the metal-work for the new McConnell's Ice Cream store in downtown SB. Their frozen cream dominates the world with its goodness.
Currently, we are putting up new problems every week or so, and there's room for more development. I'll be posting as promptly as I can, but in the meantime I wanted to at least get some word out.
Access note: the property above the Creamery is private. I don't know how far down the hillside their property-line continues, but consider it prudent to not rile the locals. Approach the Creamery from Rattlesnake trail, and don't try to drive in from the top.
Getting ThereLucky for us SBers, The Creamery is only about 15 minutes from central SB.
Park at Rattlesnake trailhead. Start by walking up trail. After climbing out of the riverbed on some short switchbacks, you leave the trees. Walk another 80 feet or so, and look for a break in the bushes to your right. The trail is faint at first (I wanted to make it somewhat hidden to hikers), but the higher you go up the hillside, the better the trail becomes. The first good boulder you come to has a tall, intimidating face.
Classic Climbing Routes at The Creamery
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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