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Routes in The Creamery

Type: Boulder, 8 ft
FA: Thomas Townsend, 2013
Page Views: 837 total, 17/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 28, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Yeah, I know, when you first walk up to this line it looks like a not-so-tall V4. Trust me: it's much harder than it looks. Begin from the sit with right hand on wonderfully sharp little sidepull, and left on equally sharp crimp. Perform some contortionist trickery, slap left to sloper-rail, then figure out how to bump your right hand up the bulge. Packs a lot of climbing in a small space.

Location

Left of Sucker Punch, located on the Sucker Punch boulder, which is immediately behind and left of the Frigidaire boulder.

Protection

One pad will do the trick.

Photos

andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I've heard some people argue about the grading. There's a bunch of ways to do this problem, and all of them feel dramatically different—in my opinion. Take the V7 grade with a grain of salt. The way Bernd, myself, Dean, and Thomas first did the problem was hard-ish, but I know problems have a way of settling over time.

This little boulder affords amazing rock. I love the left hand sloping crimp with the tiny shred-your-tips imbedded crystal. Sep 22, 2014