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Routes in The Creamery

Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Thomas Townsend, 2013
Page Views: 1,907 total, 39/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 17, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Destined for glory, this one.

Begins in obvious cave. Start with left hand on vertical crimp and right hand on sloping edge. The idea is to start with your whole body in the cave. Do a desperate and shoulder-wrenching move to a pinch at the edge of the cave. Figure out transition to crimp-rail without swinging off the rock, and top out boulder via highball slab. Amazing stone, amazing position, amazing moves. Did I say I like this problem?

You can start the problem on the right-hand edge of the cave as well using some crimps and heelhooks. It makes the problem significantly easier, but no less quality.

Location

On the First Come First Served boulder at the upper right corner of hillside. Take main trail uphill, and when it forks, head right.

Protection

Good assortment of paddage.

Photos

Tim King  
 
Only done the 'Cheat start' (straddling the cave), but even still it's mega classic. Had trouble sticking the original start move to the sloper pinch in the sun...
Must come back for an early morning or night sesh.... Sooo good. Feb 27, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
For the record, it took me like 175 attempts of the OPENING MOVE to send this. Longest battle with a problem I've ever had.

It was dark, and all I had was a headlamp and a particularly potent blend of coffee and hot-chocolate.

So satisfying to send. Apr 27, 2014