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Routes in The Creamery

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Andy Patterson... maybe?
Page Views: 628 total · 11/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Nov 29, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Nice problem that demands good footwork and core tension. Start standing with right hand in pocket and left hand on crimp rail. Several satisfying deadpoints to sloping crimps lead to an easy and airy slab.

Location

On the Frigidaire boulder, around the corner to the left of Frigidaire. Basically, the North face of the boulder.

Protection

Pad.

Photos

Tim King
  V3
Tim King  
  V3
Did a little lower start to this one a few days ago... Left on a crimp (lower, almost continuation of the upper crimp rail. Near the V) and right on another crimp/sidepull near the same height. Foot down real low (had to dig out a little dirt for the heel) in a weird heucoey thing. Huck for the good pocket, and backstep catch to gain the original start. Good fun, ups the ante a bit. Felt as hard (or a bit harder?) than Sucker Punch.. Feb 24, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Yeah, it does up the difficulty to about Sucker Punch.

Bernd did that with me a few seasons ago. He didn't even try the stand first, in my memory. Just went straight to the sit. Thanks for cleaning it up, Tim. I'm psyched that people are still going to the Creamery. Feb 25, 2015
Duke Lettieri
Santa Barbara, CA
  V4-
Duke Lettieri   Santa Barbara, CA
  V4-
youtu.be/hYlFB-ROW4s Jun 5, 2016

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