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Routes in The Creamery

Type: Boulder, 12 ft
FA: Pablo Hammack
Page Views: 814 total, 17/month
Shared By: andy patterson on Dec 3, 2013
Admins: andy patterson, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Project!

Thomas Townsed spied this immediately upon cleaning the base of poison oak and dead bushes. Sit-start on small shelf. Left hand grabs a side-pull-ish crimp, and right hand latches a low, open-handed crimp. Heel-hook left, set up, and fire right hand to tiny edge. Thus unfolds a sequence of utter grimness.

Any heroes out there?

Location

Middle of South Face of Icebox.

Protection

Padz.

Photos

Pablo Hammack
  V12
Pablo Hammack  
  V12
I'm still sticking with State of the Art as the name. In the gnarbara wasn't a name for it. I was just saying where the thing was. I finally settled down for hard 12. We'll see if anyone repeats this in the future and if it breaks haha. Apr 15, 2017
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
News flash: on 4/15, Pablo Hammack sent the project, calling it "In the Gnarbara". No grade as of yet. I'll let Pablo update this post as he sees fit. Apr 15, 2017
State of the art is broken now (the two good holds are gone) and probably much harder … but there is a variation starting left on a left gaston and right rounded crimp that is very nice. Probably around V6-7 Jan 1, 2014
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Not only has Thomas done all the moves, he has come heartbrakingly close to sending the rig (as of November, 2013). Dec 4, 2013