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Areas in Mt. Morrison

North Face 12 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 1 / 5 / 12 / 12
Torre De Mierda 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 3
Elevation: 12,268 ft
GPS: 37.561, -118.858 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 13,276 total · 254/month
Shared By: Preston Rhea on Nov 4, 2013
Admins: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

Description

Mount Morrison is probably the most infamous mountain of the Mammoth Lakes area of the Sierra. Easily visible from the 395, its spectacular north face has been described as "holding a fatal attraction for climbers" as the rock is quite loose.

Depending on the area on the peak being climbed, the rock varies wildly. Some areas are no better than vertical scree fields and others are surprisingly solid. Protection in this variable rock can be very difficult to come by and often suspect. Caution should be exercised on all routes.

Getting There

Mount Morrison is easily accessible via the Convict Lake trailhead.

To access the north face: from the parking lot on the eastern shore of the lake, take the trail towards the south end of the lake. Near the end of the trail right by the south end of the lake, leave the trail and start traversing up the hill towards Mount Morrison. There is no easy way about this, it is a bushwacking scree slog for around 1200'. Once in the hanging valley below the north face of Morrison, there is a use trail along the north side of the valley. This approach is the better option if climbing anything on Torre De Mierda or routes right (west) of the North Buttress in winter. In summer, this is the preferred approach for all routes on the north face.

To access the eastern slope (also the descent route): from the Convict Lake parking lot hike the moraine immediately above the lot and directly to the east. This will give access to a long valley. Various use trails can be followed to the eastern slope. This approach is also a good alternative to the north face approach. Though not nearly as direct, it spreads the climbing out over a much longer distance and does not feel quite as much of a grunt. If you have a high clearance four-wheel drive car, you can drive to the top of the moraine. Access to the dirt roads can be gained off of Mount Morrison Road just east of the Convict Lake turn off of the 395.

15 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mt. Morrison

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
WI3-4
Northwest Couloir
Trad, Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
M4
Caught Inside
Trad, Mixed, Alpine 9 pitches
3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a
Northwest Ridge
Trad, Alpine
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Northwest Couloir N Face WI3-4 Trad, Ice, Alpine 8 pitches
Caught Inside N Face M4 Trad, Mixed, Alpine 9 pitches
Northwest Ridge N Face 3rd 1- 1 I 1 M 1a Trad, Alpine
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