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Routes in Torre De Mierda

East Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Glass House T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Northeast Buttress T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

Description

Torre De Mierda is a sub-peak of Mount Morrison and an interesting objective in its own right. It easy to identify as it is a rock type different from the red rock on the Northwest Ridge. There are two summits to the Torre: the northernmost being the true summit of the sub-peak. The southern summit is included because it is the same rock type and still feels like a distinct feature like the northern.

The original route on the feature is the Northeast Buttress (II 5.4) and was not put up until 1992. It is probably the best moderate rock climb in the area and a good warm-up for routes on the proper North Face of Morrison. Despite the moderate grade, it is worth noting that first excursions in the Morrison area can be eye opening experiences and may take longer than expected; plan accordingly. It is also the only route to directly ascend the northern summit.

In winter, Torre Couloir (NW Ridge Var) (IV M2 Moderate Snow) offers good mixed climbing up and over the Torre and continuing on to the summit of Morrison.

The rock varies from quite solid to vertical scree field. Protection in this variable rock can be hard to come by and is often suspect. The actual rock type is fairly consistent in the entire formation and does not vary nearly as much as the rock on the north face proper. Like the north face, the rock takes cams very well, especially in the finger sizes. Nuts do not typically work all that well, but a small set of small to medium sized nuts can be helpful.

Caution should be exercised on all routes.

Getting There

The approach is the same as approaching the north face of Mount Morrison which can be found here: Mt. Morrison.

3 Total Climbs

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